- Published on
As a huge fan of the original Bogota location, I am extremely happy to report that Salon Tropical, a restaurant that gets everything so very right, has recently opened in Cartagena. YAY! I went along to the opening night last Saturday and everyone at our table, at the table next to us, and basically everyone we spoke to agreed, Salon Tropical had moved immediately into our top 3 Cartagena restaurant list. It's really very good.
You'll find Salon Tropical, Cartagena in my favourite neighbourhood: Getsemani.. just a block or so from the iconic Plaza Trinidad. This makes it the perfect place to fill up on delicious food before/after exploring the nearby streets and nightlife (including Cafe Havana, Tertulia and Seven Times, not to mention the sidewalk bars of Callejon Ancho and Angosto). If you've been to the Bogota Salon Tropical, the interior design of this second location will feel very familiar. Colourful without being over the top, it is spacious and breezy, and feels like a well-designed beach house in the Antillas. Evening lighting is great for comfort and conversation and bad for influencers taking photos (which is to say it is perfect).
The menu, roughly a division between "raw" and grill, speaks to me. The "raw" (the mostly seafood proteins are "cooked" by the citrus and other fruit acids) section of ceviches and tiraditos and tatare type dishes are bursting with freshness and flavour. The grill dishes are rich and caramelised and oozing with umami goodness. I've been back a couple of times now and have tried about 50% of the menu and hand on heart I loved absolutely everything I put in my mouth. When I try to think of favourites the shrimp tostones, ceviche rokoto, the grilled vegetable side dishes, the grilled fish, and for the carnivores the pork and beef chuleton (drool), the chicken is so perfect, and all the high quality steak cuts are really, really good. We drank palomas because tequila felt right and they were excellent. They also have a nice selection of mezcal which is very much up my alley too.
Dessert lovers, save room for the Crème Brûlée.
Each visit, service has been top notch. And there is live music most nights which add to the lively atmosphere. I especially love how good the food is compared with how unpretentious the vibe is. Always my favourite style of eating experience.
It's brand new, so you might not find many reviews or people recommending it yet, but this is a restaurant where you can definitely take a punt on a newcomer and have zero remorse. Check out the gallery of photos below; I think you'll agree they back up my words of endorsement nicely.
For reservations, visit their website here: https://salontropical.com.co
You'll find Salon Tropical, Cartagena in my favourite neighbourhood: Getsemani.. just a block or so from the iconic Plaza Trinidad. This makes it the perfect place to fill up on delicious food before/after exploring the nearby streets and nightlife (including Cafe Havana, Tertulia and Seven Times, not to mention the sidewalk bars of Callejon Ancho and Angosto). If you've been to the Bogota Salon Tropical, the interior design of this second location will feel very familiar. Colourful without being over the top, it is spacious and breezy, and feels like a well-designed beach house in the Antillas. Evening lighting is great for comfort and conversation and bad for influencers taking photos (which is to say it is perfect).
The menu, roughly a division between "raw" and grill, speaks to me. The "raw" (the mostly seafood proteins are "cooked" by the citrus and other fruit acids) section of ceviches and tiraditos and tatare type dishes are bursting with freshness and flavour. The grill dishes are rich and caramelised and oozing with umami goodness. I've been back a couple of times now and have tried about 50% of the menu and hand on heart I loved absolutely everything I put in my mouth. When I try to think of favourites the shrimp tostones, ceviche rokoto, the grilled vegetable side dishes, the grilled fish, and for the carnivores the pork and beef chuleton (drool), the chicken is so perfect, and all the high quality steak cuts are really, really good. We drank palomas because tequila felt right and they were excellent. They also have a nice selection of mezcal which is very much up my alley too.
Dessert lovers, save room for the Crème Brûlée.
Each visit, service has been top notch. And there is live music most nights which add to the lively atmosphere. I especially love how good the food is compared with how unpretentious the vibe is. Always my favourite style of eating experience.
It's brand new, so you might not find many reviews or people recommending it yet, but this is a restaurant where you can definitely take a punt on a newcomer and have zero remorse. Check out the gallery of photos below; I think you'll agree they back up my words of endorsement nicely.
For reservations, visit their website here: https://salontropical.com.co
- Published on
Yes! We are so so so excited for Cartagena Connections to be featured, named, recommended and linked in the iconic New York Times 36 Hours in Cartagena feature. OK.. so first of all, read the entire article here. Journalist Shannon Sims has done a really amazing job of capturing the essence of Cartagena and also condensing the myriad things to eat, drink and do into a pretty perfect list. Upon reading the beautifully written article, you will note that we, Cartagena Connections, are listed as the very first thing to do in your weekend itinerary. How ace is that?! Then they actually include a photo of me (as always, making weird faces while I talk about food - not complaining) which looks like this:
You can also see the part where they recommend either a private, customised tour with us, or to opt for our famous streetfood tour. Just so happy with this!!! Shannon later told us she tried a couple of different tour groups but that we were by far the best. #mildbrag
So! We hope this feature turns into lots of awesome people experiencing Cartagena through us. And if you want that to be YOU, please send us an email to info@cartagenaconnections.com or use the booking form below. Thank you New York Times!!!
That link again:
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/08/24/travel/things-to-do-cartagena-colombia.html
Streetfood Tour description here
Private Tour here
Getsemani Tour here
So! We hope this feature turns into lots of awesome people experiencing Cartagena through us. And if you want that to be YOU, please send us an email to info@cartagenaconnections.com or use the booking form below. Thank you New York Times!!!
That link again:
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/08/24/travel/things-to-do-cartagena-colombia.html
Streetfood Tour description here
Private Tour here
Getsemani Tour here
- Published on
There's many reasons as to why there has been an increase in specifically western interest in plant medicines (decrease in influence of religious doctrine, lack of connection/meaning in capitalist society and subsequent searches for hole-filling, a recognition that nature and traditional custodians of earth wisdom have better answers etc etc).
Traveling has long been a means of gaining expansion and insight, so it makes sense that many travelers look to combine plant medicine and wellness retreats with their journeys through Colombia.
With the growing interest, there are a growing number of options throughout Colombia looking to satisfy demand. I think it would be fair to say not all of these options are offered with the most pure of intentions. With that caveat it is strongly suggested that anyone curious about exploring plant medicine in Colombia, does some pretty thorough due diligence beforehand. I would also add that not all medicine is for all people. Whilst someone you know may have had incredible breakthroughs and healing with a specific medicine, it simply might not be a good choice for you. Furthermore I will emphasize that they really should be treated as medicine. For those looking for a party drug or a way to block things out for a while, look elsewhere. Plant medicines are all about intention, ego surrender and inner work. They can be a shortcut to the most beautiful view of a more beautiful world to let you know what is actually possible.. but then once you have received this vision you will have to learn how to climb the stairs on your own.
Ok! So having said ALL that.. where can one find plant medicine ceremonies in Cartagena (and the relatively accessible beyond)?
A reliable starting point is an island location on Tierra Bomba about 15 minutes by boat from Cartagena mainland which offers monthly and bi-monthly plant medicine ceremonies. Visit their website for more information: www.namastebeachclub.com/ceremonias/
They work directly with indigenous communities and spiritual community leaders, ensuring medicine is sourced sustainably. The location is beautiful with lots of spaces for connection with nature and the elements, beautiful trees, traditional malokas, mindful musicians.
They have hosted Yagé ceremonies (known outside of Colombia as Ayahuasca), Peyote ceremonies, Mushroom and Cacao ceremonies. There are nightly fire ceremonies and daily yoga and meditation sessions. They also host retreats.
This is the only option within Cartagena (so far) with regular ongoing plant medicine ceremonies. Various guides will offer one-off ceremonies or retreats with 1-2 months notice in different locations. So again, feel free to send us an email to check if there's anything planned. We will also re-share events on our instagram page www.instagram.com/cartagenaconnections so check us out there as well.
There is also a really fabulous and experienced lady who works with Bufo and Kambo. She is based in Bocagrande and if you are interested we can put you in direct contact (she speaks perfect English) and she will explain the process. It's best to make bookings in advance. She is probably best reached via her instagram: @sandraanichiarico
Once you move beyond Cartagena around Santa Marta, you will find a lot more options. Mundo Nuevo in Minca hosts regular Cacao ceremonies for example. Sierra Ancestral, also in Minca, focuses on Yagé. Heading along the coast Gitana del Mar frequently hosts Ayahuasca retreats. The beautiful One Sanctuary in Palomino hosts various rituals, Yay! Ecolodge and Rio Hostel.
The best option will probably be to do a search of the ceremony you are interested in facebook adding the city or region.
Please feel free to email us with any additional questions and we will do our best to help connect you to the right people and information. Sorry to those who have added comments below - we are unable to reply on this format. Send us an email or whatsapp!
Traveling has long been a means of gaining expansion and insight, so it makes sense that many travelers look to combine plant medicine and wellness retreats with their journeys through Colombia.
With the growing interest, there are a growing number of options throughout Colombia looking to satisfy demand. I think it would be fair to say not all of these options are offered with the most pure of intentions. With that caveat it is strongly suggested that anyone curious about exploring plant medicine in Colombia, does some pretty thorough due diligence beforehand. I would also add that not all medicine is for all people. Whilst someone you know may have had incredible breakthroughs and healing with a specific medicine, it simply might not be a good choice for you. Furthermore I will emphasize that they really should be treated as medicine. For those looking for a party drug or a way to block things out for a while, look elsewhere. Plant medicines are all about intention, ego surrender and inner work. They can be a shortcut to the most beautiful view of a more beautiful world to let you know what is actually possible.. but then once you have received this vision you will have to learn how to climb the stairs on your own.
Ok! So having said ALL that.. where can one find plant medicine ceremonies in Cartagena (and the relatively accessible beyond)?
A reliable starting point is an island location on Tierra Bomba about 15 minutes by boat from Cartagena mainland which offers monthly and bi-monthly plant medicine ceremonies. Visit their website for more information: www.namastebeachclub.com/ceremonias/
They work directly with indigenous communities and spiritual community leaders, ensuring medicine is sourced sustainably. The location is beautiful with lots of spaces for connection with nature and the elements, beautiful trees, traditional malokas, mindful musicians.
They have hosted Yagé ceremonies (known outside of Colombia as Ayahuasca), Peyote ceremonies, Mushroom and Cacao ceremonies. There are nightly fire ceremonies and daily yoga and meditation sessions. They also host retreats.
This is the only option within Cartagena (so far) with regular ongoing plant medicine ceremonies. Various guides will offer one-off ceremonies or retreats with 1-2 months notice in different locations. So again, feel free to send us an email to check if there's anything planned. We will also re-share events on our instagram page www.instagram.com/cartagenaconnections so check us out there as well.
There is also a really fabulous and experienced lady who works with Bufo and Kambo. She is based in Bocagrande and if you are interested we can put you in direct contact (she speaks perfect English) and she will explain the process. It's best to make bookings in advance. She is probably best reached via her instagram: @sandraanichiarico
Once you move beyond Cartagena around Santa Marta, you will find a lot more options. Mundo Nuevo in Minca hosts regular Cacao ceremonies for example. Sierra Ancestral, also in Minca, focuses on Yagé. Heading along the coast Gitana del Mar frequently hosts Ayahuasca retreats. The beautiful One Sanctuary in Palomino hosts various rituals, Yay! Ecolodge and Rio Hostel.
The best option will probably be to do a search of the ceremony you are interested in facebook adding the city or region.
Please feel free to email us with any additional questions and we will do our best to help connect you to the right people and information. Sorry to those who have added comments below - we are unable to reply on this format. Send us an email or whatsapp!
- Published on
A short but sweet post answering a frequently asked question: how can I post a postcard in Cartagena?
In all my travels Cartagena has to be the most difficult placesI have ever encountered for posting a humble postcard. There's no real post offices so to speak of and the ones that do exist are hard to find and have the most inconsistent and inconvenient opening hours.
So the best option for most travellers (in my opinion) is to go to this SPECIFIC souvenir shop located on the corner of Calle Roman and Calle el Cochero del Gobernador. It's right near the Plaza of the Proclamacion and the Cathedral.
Here you can:
1. buy postcards
2. buy international stamp for postcards
3. post your postcard in a 4/72 mailbox
Will it be slow? Hell yes.
Will it arrive? Hmm.. I'd say 6/10 likelihood
Is it cheap? International postage stamp is 10,000 pesos and this souvenir shop charges an extra 2,000 pesos to buy it through them.
Is the souvenir shop listed on any map making it easy to share? No. But honestly it is easy to find. Follow Calle Roman until it intersects with Calle Cochera del Gobernador. Or even easier, go to Plaza de la Proclamacion and look for the nearest souvenir shop.
Is it worth it? That's for you to be the judge. For some it will be a cute act of faith and the fact you can do all 3 steps in the one location that is easy to find with convenient opening hours is worth the 2,000 pesos markup.
After affixing your newly purchased international stamp you can insert your postcard in the blue post box located at the entry to the souvenir shop and is labelled 4/72 (apparently the name of the apparently non-existant Cartagena/Colombian postal service)
Wishing you the best of luck! And long live snail mail and cute traditions!
In all my travels Cartagena has to be the most difficult placesI have ever encountered for posting a humble postcard. There's no real post offices so to speak of and the ones that do exist are hard to find and have the most inconsistent and inconvenient opening hours.
So the best option for most travellers (in my opinion) is to go to this SPECIFIC souvenir shop located on the corner of Calle Roman and Calle el Cochero del Gobernador. It's right near the Plaza of the Proclamacion and the Cathedral.
Here you can:
1. buy postcards
2. buy international stamp for postcards
3. post your postcard in a 4/72 mailbox
Will it be slow? Hell yes.
Will it arrive? Hmm.. I'd say 6/10 likelihood
Is it cheap? International postage stamp is 10,000 pesos and this souvenir shop charges an extra 2,000 pesos to buy it through them.
Is the souvenir shop listed on any map making it easy to share? No. But honestly it is easy to find. Follow Calle Roman until it intersects with Calle Cochera del Gobernador. Or even easier, go to Plaza de la Proclamacion and look for the nearest souvenir shop.
Is it worth it? That's for you to be the judge. For some it will be a cute act of faith and the fact you can do all 3 steps in the one location that is easy to find with convenient opening hours is worth the 2,000 pesos markup.
After affixing your newly purchased international stamp you can insert your postcard in the blue post box located at the entry to the souvenir shop and is labelled 4/72 (apparently the name of the apparently non-existant Cartagena/Colombian postal service)
Wishing you the best of luck! And long live snail mail and cute traditions!
- Published on
Are things mostly open?
What precautions are being taken?
Do you have to quarantine?
Can you do tours?
Are clubs open?
Can you go to the beach?
Can you see live music?
Is it safe?
What's the general atmosphere?
Is it worth travelling there at the moment?
What precautions are being taken?
Do you have to quarantine?
Can you do tours?
Are clubs open?
Can you go to the beach?
Can you see live music?
Is it safe?
What's the general atmosphere?
Is it worth travelling there at the moment?
Every time we make a social media post letting everyone know that Cartagena is, in fact, once again open to tourism, we inevitably get asked all of these ^^^ questions in our DM. So this blog post will hopefully answer some of the doubts you may have all in the one place, to the best of our knowledge/information currently to hand. Please feel free to spread it around, add links to it, add questions below etc etc we'll be adding it to speed-dial.
Are things mostly open?
Yes. Unfortunately we had a lot of casualties during the long, long months that Cartagena was completely shut down and businesses that rely on tourism were still having to pay rent and wages. It's honestly so heartbreaking to walk around and see "for rent" signs where previously our friends had thriving businesses. Or maybe worse, a chain take their place. (sad face) But the places that survived, are all doing their best to re-activate whilst still complying with all the measures that are now required. Expect to find lots of restaurants, some great bars, some fantastic cafes, lots of islands and beach clubs, hair and beauty salons, some massage businesses and spas, museums, and even live music venues (hoorah!)
What measures/restrictions have been put in place?
Oh wow, a lot. And it also depends on the venue. Here's some of them:
- Mask wearing in public, upon entering any closed space such as shops, restaurants, cafes etc
Once you are seated at your table and ready to eat/drink.. the mask can be removed. You'll need to put it on to go to the bathroom or to generally move around the space.
- Anti-bacterial gel EVERYWHERE. Before you enter any venue, on the tables, in the streets.
- Taking your temperature all the time. From the airport to wherever you're staying, before entering shopping malls, bars or restaurants. Like 20 times a day. Whoever was smart enough to be an early importer of those temperature readers is laughing all the way to the bank.
- Bars and restaurants will likely require you to complete an online registration form upon entering. you'll include your name and ID and whether you are experiencing any covid-like symptoms.
- Early closure. Bars and restaurants aren't permitted to stay open past midnight. Sigh. If this is just too early for you, and you're creative, you may be able to find work-arounds such as lock-ins at small venues, private boat or islands parties, private parties at home etc
It might also be a sign to start drinking earlier before the cinderalla rule comes into effect. Hello day drinking! (May we suggest the Townhouse weekend bottomless brunch for example?)
- Curfews. In an attempt to curb the rising numbers of infections in the outer-neighbourhoods of Cartagena, an after-dark curfew has been put in place preventing restaurants, bars and gatherings past 10pm. These neighbourhoods are not in the main tourist zone of Cartagena (ie centro, bocagrande, getsemani, marbella, crespo etc etc) and will likely not have any impact on you arriving as a tourist. But if you are in doubt, feel free to send us a message.
- Seated. So in order to be permitted to be in a restaurant or bar or cafe etc, you have to be seated. This means that any dancing has to be chair dancing. We know. This hurts us too. On the plus side, if having to dance in public makes you break out in sweat, now you have a perfect excuse.
- Reduced capacity. Normally by at least 50%. Restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, transport, tour buses, boats, islands etc etc have had to restrict the usual number of guests they can receive. It's making it super hard for many businesses to be able to operate in anything close to a profitable/sustainable way. So feel free to eat and drink twice as much to compensate!
Do you have to quarantine upon arrival?
If you don't have symptoms and haven't tested positive you don't have to quarantine. If you do have to quarantine, we can probably help you find a good place to do it so send us an email.
Can you do tours?
OMG please do a Cartagena Connections tour! We have had like no income all year! Plus we are really good! Everyone says so* We would recommend our food/culture tour (which we are renaming "shortcut to local" tour), the mercado bazurto tour, our history tour, a photo tour, or our getsemani tour, plus our private tours which can be customised depending on what you are most interested in. We have great English (and can also do Spanish and French and German), we are either born and bred here (or in Kristy's case have lived here since 2012) and we create the type of tours that are perfect for people who don't really like tours. More like you are hanging out with a local friend. The other good thing about our tours is that we try and involve the whole community. So your tourism dollar gets spread wider and can do more good.
Ok. Sorry. Got worked up. You can also do mangrove tours, bike tours to tierra bomba, tours of the fortress, the red bus tours that are everywhere, cocktail tours, chiva bus tours etc etc check out options under the DAY menu tab above.
Are clubs open?
ok already kind of answered this, but to elaborate a bit.. because the capacity has been reduced by so much and because they have to close so early, a lot of clubs
(like previously mega-popular La Movida) have felt it is not viable to open. We will be putting together a list of some of the best options that are still open ASAP. And if we haven't, please harass us until we do.
Can you go to the beach?
Yes. Kind of. Not all of Cartagena's local beaches are open. Not all of the beach clubs in the islands are open. But there's lots that are. Any beach you visit requires pre-registration.
There's 5 local public beaches that are open which you can reserve via this government website: https://reservadeplayas.cartagena.gov.co/
In practice, as a tourist, you can probably get a spot as a walk-up.
The beach has been divided into roped off sections and to be honest it all feels much better organised than it did before. Here's a photo we took last Sunday.
Are things mostly open?
Yes. Unfortunately we had a lot of casualties during the long, long months that Cartagena was completely shut down and businesses that rely on tourism were still having to pay rent and wages. It's honestly so heartbreaking to walk around and see "for rent" signs where previously our friends had thriving businesses. Or maybe worse, a chain take their place. (sad face) But the places that survived, are all doing their best to re-activate whilst still complying with all the measures that are now required. Expect to find lots of restaurants, some great bars, some fantastic cafes, lots of islands and beach clubs, hair and beauty salons, some massage businesses and spas, museums, and even live music venues (hoorah!)
What measures/restrictions have been put in place?
Oh wow, a lot. And it also depends on the venue. Here's some of them:
- Mask wearing in public, upon entering any closed space such as shops, restaurants, cafes etc
Once you are seated at your table and ready to eat/drink.. the mask can be removed. You'll need to put it on to go to the bathroom or to generally move around the space.
- Anti-bacterial gel EVERYWHERE. Before you enter any venue, on the tables, in the streets.
- Taking your temperature all the time. From the airport to wherever you're staying, before entering shopping malls, bars or restaurants. Like 20 times a day. Whoever was smart enough to be an early importer of those temperature readers is laughing all the way to the bank.
- Bars and restaurants will likely require you to complete an online registration form upon entering. you'll include your name and ID and whether you are experiencing any covid-like symptoms.
- Early closure. Bars and restaurants aren't permitted to stay open past midnight. Sigh. If this is just too early for you, and you're creative, you may be able to find work-arounds such as lock-ins at small venues, private boat or islands parties, private parties at home etc
It might also be a sign to start drinking earlier before the cinderalla rule comes into effect. Hello day drinking! (May we suggest the Townhouse weekend bottomless brunch for example?)
- Curfews. In an attempt to curb the rising numbers of infections in the outer-neighbourhoods of Cartagena, an after-dark curfew has been put in place preventing restaurants, bars and gatherings past 10pm. These neighbourhoods are not in the main tourist zone of Cartagena (ie centro, bocagrande, getsemani, marbella, crespo etc etc) and will likely not have any impact on you arriving as a tourist. But if you are in doubt, feel free to send us a message.
- Seated. So in order to be permitted to be in a restaurant or bar or cafe etc, you have to be seated. This means that any dancing has to be chair dancing. We know. This hurts us too. On the plus side, if having to dance in public makes you break out in sweat, now you have a perfect excuse.
- Reduced capacity. Normally by at least 50%. Restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, transport, tour buses, boats, islands etc etc have had to restrict the usual number of guests they can receive. It's making it super hard for many businesses to be able to operate in anything close to a profitable/sustainable way. So feel free to eat and drink twice as much to compensate!
Do you have to quarantine upon arrival?
If you don't have symptoms and haven't tested positive you don't have to quarantine. If you do have to quarantine, we can probably help you find a good place to do it so send us an email.
Can you do tours?
OMG please do a Cartagena Connections tour! We have had like no income all year! Plus we are really good! Everyone says so* We would recommend our food/culture tour (which we are renaming "shortcut to local" tour), the mercado bazurto tour, our history tour, a photo tour, or our getsemani tour, plus our private tours which can be customised depending on what you are most interested in. We have great English (and can also do Spanish and French and German), we are either born and bred here (or in Kristy's case have lived here since 2012) and we create the type of tours that are perfect for people who don't really like tours. More like you are hanging out with a local friend. The other good thing about our tours is that we try and involve the whole community. So your tourism dollar gets spread wider and can do more good.
Ok. Sorry. Got worked up. You can also do mangrove tours, bike tours to tierra bomba, tours of the fortress, the red bus tours that are everywhere, cocktail tours, chiva bus tours etc etc check out options under the DAY menu tab above.
Are clubs open?
ok already kind of answered this, but to elaborate a bit.. because the capacity has been reduced by so much and because they have to close so early, a lot of clubs
(like previously mega-popular La Movida) have felt it is not viable to open. We will be putting together a list of some of the best options that are still open ASAP. And if we haven't, please harass us until we do.
Can you go to the beach?
Yes. Kind of. Not all of Cartagena's local beaches are open. Not all of the beach clubs in the islands are open. But there's lots that are. Any beach you visit requires pre-registration.
There's 5 local public beaches that are open which you can reserve via this government website: https://reservadeplayas.cartagena.gov.co/
In practice, as a tourist, you can probably get a spot as a walk-up.
The beach has been divided into roped off sections and to be honest it all feels much better organised than it did before. Here's a photo we took last Sunday.
social distancing on Cartagena beaches.
You can also visit a few different private beach clubs located on the islands of Tierra Bomba, Baru and also the Islas Rosarios. Again we're compiling a list. But if you can't find it yet, send us an email or a whatsapp and we can help you choose the best option.
Can you see live music?
Yes! If you are of the opinion that Cartagena wouldn't be Cartagena without music, fear not. Venues such as Calle Adentro, Tertulia plus a whole bunch of restaurants and also street performers are ensuring that you can get your live music fix. RIP Bazurto Social Club (audible sobs).
Is it safe?
Whether you want to leave your house during a pandemic is a decision you have to make on your own. Security-wise, the touristic zone of Cartagena remains a very safe destination, and you may also take into consideration the fact that the bio-security/anti-covid measures here are probably stricter than where you're coming from in making your decision.
What's the general atmosphere? Is it worth travelling there now?
The overall vibe is colourful, vibrant, fun, positive, optimistic (with masks and antibac gel). If you've been to Cartagena before and bemoaned the fact that it was feeling too touristy - well that's not such a problem any more. The vast majority of the tourists now are from other parts of Colombia. You will find everyone, from your hotel, your guides, your restaurants, your barmen etc very very happy to welcome you. To be honest it's kind of awesome. If we weren't broke. haha (cries).
If you're debating a trip to Colombia and Cartagena (and you're not super worried about leaving your house and getting on a plane) then I think yes, it's worth it. It's summer, there's lots of open-air activities, and it's still Cartagena.. which even during a pandemic, is mega charming and enchanting and fun.
Hope that helps!
*almost (not, for example a particular recurrent troll who gives us no-star reviews that barely make sense from multiple fake accounts. sigh)
Can you see live music?
Yes! If you are of the opinion that Cartagena wouldn't be Cartagena without music, fear not. Venues such as Calle Adentro, Tertulia plus a whole bunch of restaurants and also street performers are ensuring that you can get your live music fix. RIP Bazurto Social Club (audible sobs).
Is it safe?
Whether you want to leave your house during a pandemic is a decision you have to make on your own. Security-wise, the touristic zone of Cartagena remains a very safe destination, and you may also take into consideration the fact that the bio-security/anti-covid measures here are probably stricter than where you're coming from in making your decision.
What's the general atmosphere? Is it worth travelling there now?
The overall vibe is colourful, vibrant, fun, positive, optimistic (with masks and antibac gel). If you've been to Cartagena before and bemoaned the fact that it was feeling too touristy - well that's not such a problem any more. The vast majority of the tourists now are from other parts of Colombia. You will find everyone, from your hotel, your guides, your restaurants, your barmen etc very very happy to welcome you. To be honest it's kind of awesome. If we weren't broke. haha (cries).
If you're debating a trip to Colombia and Cartagena (and you're not super worried about leaving your house and getting on a plane) then I think yes, it's worth it. It's summer, there's lots of open-air activities, and it's still Cartagena.. which even during a pandemic, is mega charming and enchanting and fun.
Hope that helps!
*almost (not, for example a particular recurrent troll who gives us no-star reviews that barely make sense from multiple fake accounts. sigh)
- Published on
If you already follow us on instagram (and if you don't why not? ;)) you have hopefully seen our more recent posts celebrating the culture of Cartagena and all the wonderful ways it is unlike anywhere else in the world. The above post (check it here) talks about how costeños don't go through the formality of saying buenos días, buenas tardes, buenas noches etc they instead opt for a long, drawn out, and quite nasal "bueeeeeenas" which basically has you covered for all times of the day. Maybe it's because time is never the most important thing in Cartagena? Anyway, after our post received a lot of positive attention, and people started to send us their versions of the costeña "buenas", we realised that the very essence of Cartagena and its people is captured in this authentic way of saying hello. For those reading this post in the hopefully covid-free and golden future, Cartagena is going through a pretty tough time as a result of all the strict quarantine measures, airport and business closures and resulting economic hardships/destitution courtesy of the local and global responses to the disease. On an individual level, people have responded in different ways. Unfortunately, one of the main responses has been to throw blame on each other and further divide and fraction the population. So as we continued to receive more incredible "buenas" videos, we thought that warm, welcoming, generous, connected energy that is so palpable in Cartagena could be something that the world could do with a bit more, and that Cartageneros could be reminded of, as they are being asked to once again dig deep and rise against the fear and uncertainty. So we made a video, and we think it would be amazing if you could add your voice to those of your Cartagenera friends. We'd love to see the Cartagena buenas travel around the world! Check out the video, and then give it a go! Trust us, it's fun! Then either/and upload your video to instagram/facebook tagging @cartagenaconnections and using the hashtag #buenaspalmundo or send it to us in a whatsapp message or facetime message to +57 3002 807 237
- Published on
Thank you to all you wonderful people asking about how Cartagena is coping in the face of COVID-19 pandemic. Whether that's because you travelled here, have friends or family here, feel a connection to here, plan to one day live here, are just generally a compassionate person, whatever the reason, thank you for keeping Cartagena and her people in your heart. It is for you that I'm writing my impressions on how things are going down. This is in no way an exhaustive summary and I am most definitely not a scientist, but maybe it will give an overall idea.
Colombia confirmed their first case on 6 March (a 19 year old returning from travels in Milan, Italy), and after 8 more cases across the country, declared a health emergency on March 12; suspending all public events and denying entry of cruise-ships. Land borders were closed from March 16, and international arrivals of non-residents were restricted, whilst returning residents were required to complete 14 days of isolation. International flights were suspended and airports closed from March 23 onwards.
In Cartagena, tourists and ex-pats jumped on whatever outbound flights they could get. Hotels were vacated. Initially restaurants and bars could open at 30% capacity, and then with the tighter measures that started from March 20, were closed completely. In the first round of quarantine, everyone (other than essential workers) was required to stay home, with the exception that one household member could leave only to get groceries or medical supplies. Or to walk your dog (this has been the ultimate salvation for me and my adopted dog Maddie). Complete, city-wide curfews were (and continue) in place from 4pm until 6am. The wearing of masks in public is compulsory. As the quarantine restrictions extended, week after week, Cartagena's government sought to further curb the amount of people leaving their homes by introducing "pico y cédula". This means that individuals are only permitted to leave the house to buy groceries and medical supplies 1-2 times per week (it has varied depending upon the week) in accordance with the allotted day which corresponds with the final digit of their ID number. The days and numbers have been announced the Sunday before the following fornight. Some of the weeks have also further split up the allotted days by gender, in addition to ID numbers. Fines are issued for non-compliance.
This is all to say, Cartagena moved relatively rapidly and comprehensively to shut down the city. Whilst there may be some complaints about how compliant people have been with this lockdown, I think it can generally be said that the actions have probably minimised the impact of the threat to health (or at least bought more time for the region's dramatically underprepared health system).
But in a country with almost no institutional safety net (for example, no unemployment support), the economic implications have already been devastating and we can only expect they will get worse and worse. Cartagena is almost entirely dependent upon the tourism and hospitality sector. It seems unlikely that bars, restaurants, hotels, airports, borders etc will open before September (and maybe not even then). And in the meantime, super high rent, utility bills, salaries for staff etc etc are still being paid by drowning business owners who have not had any income since March 16. Desperate pleas among the hospitality/tourism industry for government assistance in negotiating rent and bill freezes or subsidies went unanswered. Each day more and more businesses close for good and staff are made redundant. Iconic fine dining restaurants Don Juan and Maria have already closed and their interiors gutted. Our beloved social enterprise vegetarian brunch place Cafe Stepping Stone also regrettably have been forced to close and the Aussie founders are booked on humanitarian flights back to their homeland. The government’s response has mostly been to advise businesses to "reinvent" themselves and move to domicilio (delivery) and servicing the local market. There have definitely been some businesses that have had success with this transition, but for others it just isn't practical, especially when rents and prices have been set based on tourists, not locals who are accustomed to cooking all their meals at home (or having their live-in maids do so). Also it's hard to see how this could work for the empty hotels, the un-chartered boats, the empty taxis, the un-visited tourist sites, the cancelled weddings and events, the tour guides and so on. I'm friends with many owners of such businesses and it is so heartbreaking to see the dreams they have fought so hard for, come crashing and, even more painful, learning of the burden many of them carry for their staff - knowing that when they stop paying wages, when there is literally no more money to do so, there is no other financial protection or support whatsoever.
This also does not mention the huge population of workers whose "employment" does not exist formally on paper. The people who sell hats or pearls to tourists, that try to get you to enter the particular bar or emerald store that pays them a commission, the women who give massages on beaches or the men who sell you an umbrella to sit under, the palenqueras selling fruits and traditional desserts, the arepa stand, the dancers who perform for tips in plazas, even those bloody freelance rappers, the list is never-ending.. no tourists, no-one allowed in public means no money.. for months. These are usually not people with savings. These are people who live day to day. They have been left dependent upon sporadically and unequally delivered food handouts for survival. When people suggest it is only a matter of time before this poverty and desperation lead to instability and insecurity crime-wise, it doesn't seem inaccurate.
I'm writing this May 27 and outside of the tourism and hospitality sector, other industries are gradually opening up. Construction, refineries, manufacturing etc For everyone else, "house arrest" has so far been mandated all the way through until June, and given many experts do not believe Colombia has hit its peak outbreak-wise, it would not be surprising if the quarantine measures extend well beyond this date.
WANT TO HELP?
There are many organisations and foundations and individuals working tirelessly to support those in need.
In Cartagena, I trust Domino Volunteers who have a network of trusted community leaders purchasing groceries and life necessities, showing receipts and distributing where there is need. They are running the fundraising mostly via their instagram page which is www.instagram.com/dominovolunteers you can email them to find out how to help at dominovolunteers@gmail.com you can also use that email address to make a payment directly into their paypal account. Their website for more general information is dominovolunteers.com
Another amazing initiative organised by Domino Volunteers is to donate your time (just 1 hour a week) to helping support the tourism and hospitality sector with English classes and practice.
The idea is to use this time without work in the most beneficial way possible and hopefully improve English levels for when tourism eventually re-opens. Can you help? Send a message to dominovolunteers@gmail.com send a whatsapp message to +57 316 464 5382
In Bogotá , funds are being raised for families living in vulnerable conditions in the neighbourhoods of Ramirez and Egipto. These families usually work as "recyclers" picking up scraps, glass bottles, cans, metals, plastics etc and scraping by a day-to-day living. They call themselves Los Piratas de Ramirez. Due to COVID restrictions the "pirates" have not been able to earn any money and they have no savings nor support from the State. You can learn more and support via their crowdfunding at www.vaki.co/1585110190050
GIFT VOUCHERS
You may also want to help by pre-purchasing gift-vouchers for your favourite restaurants, hairdressers, bars, cooking schools etc to help keep them afloat go to www.yanospillamos.com and choose which restaurant/s you would like to support. The Cartagena restaurants on this site are Carmen, Celele and Lilapomarossa.
Or over at www.deestasalimos.co you can buy vouchers for food and drink at El Baron
You can also score a 20-25% discount if you pre-purchase Blue Apple beach club day passes and overnight stays here.
Still onBlue Apple, and this beach club and boutique hotel have to win the prize for the most creative fundraising. In a bid to continue to raise money for their staff and cover operational costs, they have created a couple of outside-the-box revenue streams that are deserving of attention.
Firstly, they are hiring out their donkeys and goats and other adorable family members to sit in on your zoom meetings and make them that much better. Yes, that's a thing. Check out more here: https://www.blueapplebeach.com/zoom
Secondly they have gathered all their talented staff who are exchanging Tips for tips.. make a donation (really anything is super appreciated) then watch any number of videos created by Blue Apple team members to learn tips like how to make a signature cocktail, how to get a great arm workout, or (and this one is so adorable) learn some basic sign-language. This is the link here: https://www.blueapplebeach.com/tips
Photo: El Bistro, doors closed, hopefully not forever.
Colombia confirmed their first case on 6 March (a 19 year old returning from travels in Milan, Italy), and after 8 more cases across the country, declared a health emergency on March 12; suspending all public events and denying entry of cruise-ships. Land borders were closed from March 16, and international arrivals of non-residents were restricted, whilst returning residents were required to complete 14 days of isolation. International flights were suspended and airports closed from March 23 onwards.
In Cartagena, tourists and ex-pats jumped on whatever outbound flights they could get. Hotels were vacated. Initially restaurants and bars could open at 30% capacity, and then with the tighter measures that started from March 20, were closed completely. In the first round of quarantine, everyone (other than essential workers) was required to stay home, with the exception that one household member could leave only to get groceries or medical supplies. Or to walk your dog (this has been the ultimate salvation for me and my adopted dog Maddie). Complete, city-wide curfews were (and continue) in place from 4pm until 6am. The wearing of masks in public is compulsory. As the quarantine restrictions extended, week after week, Cartagena's government sought to further curb the amount of people leaving their homes by introducing "pico y cédula". This means that individuals are only permitted to leave the house to buy groceries and medical supplies 1-2 times per week (it has varied depending upon the week) in accordance with the allotted day which corresponds with the final digit of their ID number. The days and numbers have been announced the Sunday before the following fornight. Some of the weeks have also further split up the allotted days by gender, in addition to ID numbers. Fines are issued for non-compliance.
This is all to say, Cartagena moved relatively rapidly and comprehensively to shut down the city. Whilst there may be some complaints about how compliant people have been with this lockdown, I think it can generally be said that the actions have probably minimised the impact of the threat to health (or at least bought more time for the region's dramatically underprepared health system).
But in a country with almost no institutional safety net (for example, no unemployment support), the economic implications have already been devastating and we can only expect they will get worse and worse. Cartagena is almost entirely dependent upon the tourism and hospitality sector. It seems unlikely that bars, restaurants, hotels, airports, borders etc will open before September (and maybe not even then). And in the meantime, super high rent, utility bills, salaries for staff etc etc are still being paid by drowning business owners who have not had any income since March 16. Desperate pleas among the hospitality/tourism industry for government assistance in negotiating rent and bill freezes or subsidies went unanswered. Each day more and more businesses close for good and staff are made redundant. Iconic fine dining restaurants Don Juan and Maria have already closed and their interiors gutted. Our beloved social enterprise vegetarian brunch place Cafe Stepping Stone also regrettably have been forced to close and the Aussie founders are booked on humanitarian flights back to their homeland. The government’s response has mostly been to advise businesses to "reinvent" themselves and move to domicilio (delivery) and servicing the local market. There have definitely been some businesses that have had success with this transition, but for others it just isn't practical, especially when rents and prices have been set based on tourists, not locals who are accustomed to cooking all their meals at home (or having their live-in maids do so). Also it's hard to see how this could work for the empty hotels, the un-chartered boats, the empty taxis, the un-visited tourist sites, the cancelled weddings and events, the tour guides and so on. I'm friends with many owners of such businesses and it is so heartbreaking to see the dreams they have fought so hard for, come crashing and, even more painful, learning of the burden many of them carry for their staff - knowing that when they stop paying wages, when there is literally no more money to do so, there is no other financial protection or support whatsoever.
This also does not mention the huge population of workers whose "employment" does not exist formally on paper. The people who sell hats or pearls to tourists, that try to get you to enter the particular bar or emerald store that pays them a commission, the women who give massages on beaches or the men who sell you an umbrella to sit under, the palenqueras selling fruits and traditional desserts, the arepa stand, the dancers who perform for tips in plazas, even those bloody freelance rappers, the list is never-ending.. no tourists, no-one allowed in public means no money.. for months. These are usually not people with savings. These are people who live day to day. They have been left dependent upon sporadically and unequally delivered food handouts for survival. When people suggest it is only a matter of time before this poverty and desperation lead to instability and insecurity crime-wise, it doesn't seem inaccurate.
I'm writing this May 27 and outside of the tourism and hospitality sector, other industries are gradually opening up. Construction, refineries, manufacturing etc For everyone else, "house arrest" has so far been mandated all the way through until June, and given many experts do not believe Colombia has hit its peak outbreak-wise, it would not be surprising if the quarantine measures extend well beyond this date.
WANT TO HELP?
There are many organisations and foundations and individuals working tirelessly to support those in need.
In Cartagena, I trust Domino Volunteers who have a network of trusted community leaders purchasing groceries and life necessities, showing receipts and distributing where there is need. They are running the fundraising mostly via their instagram page which is www.instagram.com/dominovolunteers you can email them to find out how to help at dominovolunteers@gmail.com you can also use that email address to make a payment directly into their paypal account. Their website for more general information is dominovolunteers.com
Another amazing initiative organised by Domino Volunteers is to donate your time (just 1 hour a week) to helping support the tourism and hospitality sector with English classes and practice.
The idea is to use this time without work in the most beneficial way possible and hopefully improve English levels for when tourism eventually re-opens. Can you help? Send a message to dominovolunteers@gmail.com send a whatsapp message to +57 316 464 5382
In Bogotá , funds are being raised for families living in vulnerable conditions in the neighbourhoods of Ramirez and Egipto. These families usually work as "recyclers" picking up scraps, glass bottles, cans, metals, plastics etc and scraping by a day-to-day living. They call themselves Los Piratas de Ramirez. Due to COVID restrictions the "pirates" have not been able to earn any money and they have no savings nor support from the State. You can learn more and support via their crowdfunding at www.vaki.co/1585110190050
GIFT VOUCHERS
You may also want to help by pre-purchasing gift-vouchers for your favourite restaurants, hairdressers, bars, cooking schools etc to help keep them afloat go to www.yanospillamos.com and choose which restaurant/s you would like to support. The Cartagena restaurants on this site are Carmen, Celele and Lilapomarossa.
Or over at www.deestasalimos.co you can buy vouchers for food and drink at El Baron
You can also score a 20-25% discount if you pre-purchase Blue Apple beach club day passes and overnight stays here.
Still onBlue Apple, and this beach club and boutique hotel have to win the prize for the most creative fundraising. In a bid to continue to raise money for their staff and cover operational costs, they have created a couple of outside-the-box revenue streams that are deserving of attention.
Firstly, they are hiring out their donkeys and goats and other adorable family members to sit in on your zoom meetings and make them that much better. Yes, that's a thing. Check out more here: https://www.blueapplebeach.com/zoom
Secondly they have gathered all their talented staff who are exchanging Tips for tips.. make a donation (really anything is super appreciated) then watch any number of videos created by Blue Apple team members to learn tips like how to make a signature cocktail, how to get a great arm workout, or (and this one is so adorable) learn some basic sign-language. This is the link here: https://www.blueapplebeach.com/tips
Photo: El Bistro, doors closed, hopefully not forever.
- Published on
Wow. So evidently I've been really slack about writing blog posts. Opening up this page I see my last post was almost 2 years ago. Oops. In my defense, I've still been updating all other sections of the website, and making facebook and instagram posts which had kind of taken over the role of blogging for me. Plus you know, days packed with working and giving tours. But then I started to get questions along the lines of "are you still operating?" or "can we buy your domain?" and also COVID-19 happened (more of that here) and I found myself with absolutely no tours or emails or excuses. So in the spirit of doing everything better, I have committed to return to weekly blogposts from here on out. If you'd like a post about anything in particular, please send an email to info@cartagenaconnections.com and let me know. Or you could write in the comments below and I'll try to be better about checking them (facepalm emoji, embarrassed monkey emoji). Ok! Here's to me being productive! Whoop!
- Published on
Have plans to have a relaxing day at the beach while you're in Cartagena? Whether you're thinking just to pop down to Bocagrande, trip up to La Boquilla or drive over to Playa Blanca, unfortunately there can be an ugly barrage of attention you may receive from vendors looking to extract the most amount of moolah possible from everybody who sets foot on their sands.
It is sad, and these vendors are definitely detroying their own livelihoods with their agressive, short-sighted approach, with tourists and locals opting more and more to avoid the public beaches and go to private island locations.
Now, it is definitely possible to still enjoy the beach.. you just have to go with your eyes open and prepared to negotiate all prices upfront. Or just say no gracias a lot. Above is a list of set prices agreed to by the local Cartagena council. Screenshot them so you have them as a reference point. There's also a number you can call if things get heated.
Above all, don't accept anything until you've set the price first. No trial massage. No sample oyster.
Now go forth, ready to avoid the beach bullying. Once they know you're clued up, they will probably leave you alone. Wish it wasn't like this but you know, sometimes life's a beach.
UPDATE: Jan wrote in comments said he couldn't read the prices in the images. So I'll write them out here now:
A double tent with 4 chairs - 30,000 pesos
Umbrella with 2 chairs - 20,000 pesos
Single tent with 2 chairs - 15,000 pesos
Sun chair - 12,000 pesos
Plastic table - 4,000 pesos
Plastic chair- 4,000 pesos
Complete massage - 50,000 pesos
Head of hair braids - 50,000 pesos
Individual braids - 20,000 pesos
Oysters - 5,000 pesos (we have definitely heard of people getting sick from eating them FYI)
Beer - 3,500-4,000 pesos
And for best beaches please check out this section of the website.
It is sad, and these vendors are definitely detroying their own livelihoods with their agressive, short-sighted approach, with tourists and locals opting more and more to avoid the public beaches and go to private island locations.
Now, it is definitely possible to still enjoy the beach.. you just have to go with your eyes open and prepared to negotiate all prices upfront. Or just say no gracias a lot. Above is a list of set prices agreed to by the local Cartagena council. Screenshot them so you have them as a reference point. There's also a number you can call if things get heated.
Above all, don't accept anything until you've set the price first. No trial massage. No sample oyster.
Now go forth, ready to avoid the beach bullying. Once they know you're clued up, they will probably leave you alone. Wish it wasn't like this but you know, sometimes life's a beach.
UPDATE: Jan wrote in comments said he couldn't read the prices in the images. So I'll write them out here now:
A double tent with 4 chairs - 30,000 pesos
Umbrella with 2 chairs - 20,000 pesos
Single tent with 2 chairs - 15,000 pesos
Sun chair - 12,000 pesos
Plastic table - 4,000 pesos
Plastic chair- 4,000 pesos
Complete massage - 50,000 pesos
Head of hair braids - 50,000 pesos
Individual braids - 20,000 pesos
Oysters - 5,000 pesos (we have definitely heard of people getting sick from eating them FYI)
Beer - 3,500-4,000 pesos
And for best beaches please check out this section of the website.
- Published on
We're sorry. We really are very sorry. Just when you think there's nothing else to pay for your day on the water, we regretfully inform you that there is also a pesky marine tax that is levied per persona. Currently it's a whopping 16,500 pesos pp. Well, it's getting worse. We've just found out, the marine tax is being increased to 18,000 pesos starting January 1, 2019. SORRY! To avoid this, you can consider taxing a taxi or shuttle bus to Playa Blanca instead. Or going across to the close beaches of Bomba and Namaste at Tierra Bomba.