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UPDATED 2023
Want to know where to shimmy and shake, shmooze and booze in Cartagena?
During high-season (Nov-Jan) EVERYWHERE is good.. but the rest of the time Cartagena's diminutive population means it can be a bit difficult to find a place that's pumping. And if it's Monday or Tuesday, pretty much impossible.
If you want to get your party on.. these are the most reliable picks.

ALQUIMICO
Super cool space that's a feast for the senses. Colombia's best ranked bar -- coming in at number 10 on the World 50 Best rankings in 2022 and also winning Most Sustainable Bar in 2020. Amazing square bar as the focal feature. Great vibe when it's busy, easy-going hang-out when it's not. 3 levels with different cocktail menu on each. Entirely vegetarian/vegan food menu which was created by the team from Celele (it's really good!). Really fun DJs. Friday and Saturdays can mean big lines to get in.. to avoid, book an early table for dinner for guaranteed entry and stay as things warm up. It's worth it!

LA MOVIDA
The really expensive drinks end up seeming like good value considering the quality of the people, the music and party you'll encounter here. On Friday and Saturday nights everyone invariably ends up at La Movida from midnight onwards. It's playground for Colombia's rich and beautiful but without pretension. Open 7 days [pictured above]. The two main zones are electronica (outdoor patio) and crossover (inside aircon). Groups (especially bachelor) are best to book a table. Contact us and we can go through the options.
If you like this you'll also like La Jugada

EL BARON
Cartagena's first real cocktail bar, El Baron is what happens when perfectionists create the most perfect small bar experience. Super knowledgeable, creative and talented barkeep, led by the formidable and oh-so-lovely Luna deliver the best quality cocktails you will find in Cartagena. There's also an excellent winelist. And the food has us coming back week after week. Mezcal lovers should not miss The Press Box cocktail. 

MONDO
Another winner in the small but exceedingly satisfying category is the local favourite Mondo. Ideally located a few doors down from Alquimico, you'll feel right at home almost immediately thanks to the warm energy of lead bartenders Joe (aka Chatty Joe) and Juan Camilo. The space is intimate and inviting, perfect mood lighting and candles and the type of bar vibe where you end up making friends with all your drinking neighbours. But wait, there's more! A secret upstairs bar that goes by the evocative name of Slow Death. Definitely worse ways to go. 

CAFE HAVANA
There's no denying the awesome salsa ambiance and amazing live music of this chunk of Cuba in Cartagena. The entry price may seem pretty hefty, but when you consider the quality and quantity of the live musicians performing, it will seem cheap. Try and grab a table or bar spot with a good view of both the stage and the dancefloor in front.
If you like this, you'll also like Tertulia and Quiebracanto

SEVEN7 TIMES
Wow. Talk about ambitious. The biggest club on the Colombian coast, and featuring up to 5 different live music zones, Seven7 Times is all about entertainment. The main stage is dedicated to Cabaret performances (starting from 11pm), the front downstairs zone is for Vallenato and Ballads with a saloon-like ambience. Middle level you will find Salon Tropical with live salsa and also Urban with reggaeton and Champeta. Upstairs on the rooftop is electronica. Entry price is 60,000 pesos and if you want a dedicated table, you will also need to commit to a minimum spend. Bookings are recommended and can be made through us. 

CASA CRUXADA
Still not totally taking off during the week, weekends at Casa Cruxada are a different story, especially when special invited guest DJs are on the roster. For electronica lovers, this is your best chance to find really good EDM in Cartagena. The outside patio is also lots of fun with Dancehall, Soca, Champeta and Afrobeats. Really great food menu. Very cool indoor/outdoor space.

TOWNHOUSE/MEMBERS ONLY
Start on the Townhouse rooftop for sunset drinks and delicious drinking food (everyone's favourite nachos) then when the sun goes down, make your way to the ground-level bar for excellent live music (of the Jazz/American songbook variety).

CALLEJÓN ANCHO - Club de Carpinteros + Donde La Niña
Probably should have moved this to the top of the list because my actual favourite bar in Cartagena is actually the entire street of Callejón Ancho in Getsemaní. And it's not just me. The vibrant street-drinking has even been featured in the recent New York Times 36 Hours in Cartagena article (ahem, so were we #plug). It's truly the most authentically local and enjoyable vibe with the cheapest drink prices imaginable. I recommend the passionfruit mojitos (normally priced at 2 for 20,000 pesos) or stick to the refreshing local beer costeñitas. I'll normally choose to drink at Donde La Niña (the coolest matriarchy in Cartagena) or Club de Carpinteros.. but wherever you can score a table will be good.

CLOCK PUB
For those that prefer guitars and drums, this is your bar. It's also the best option for viewing an array of televised sporting events. Thursday night Karaoke with live band is always a hit with locals and visitors alike. 
If you like this, you'll also like Hard Rock Cafe

.. and because I am incapable of sticking to 10 in any of these lists..

TROPICAL WAFFLES

The most magical bar, Tropical Waffles (and can we talk about the name?!) opened amidst covid lockdowns of 2020 as a genuine speakeasy. Potential clients use to have to hold their mobile phone torch up to the pineapple window decal to illuminate it for the inside doorman to know they were legit. Fun!! Since then it has grown into an underground favourite amongst locals and those we deem worthy enough to tell. It's open laaaate and the saying: Bad decisions make the best stories, could have been coined especially for this bar and its head bartender/founder El Diablo. The cocktails are VERY good but it's the surprise factor and delicious naughtiness of it all that makes it so appealing.
It's found out of town (about 10 minutes in taxi) in a neighbourhood called Marbella. It's an indistinct store-front with excellent soundproofing that will have you questioning, "am I in the right place?" You are.  Enjoy the ride. 
If you like this you'll also like Barra 7 (seriously go to Barra 7 too)

LA CAPONERA
It's open every night til very late so is sometimes the only option for schoolnight shenanigans. The prices are cheap, the decor is kitschy cool and they play all the best salsa songs to get you dancing. It's also great for people watching folk on their way to and from the old town. I call it my favourite dive-bar in the most affectionate way imaginable. 
If you like this you'll also like Donde Fidel

PLAZA TRINIDAD
Ok.. so it's not exactly a bar, but in a town that encourages public drinking, Plaza Trinidad may as well be one. Buy your booze (rum, aguardiente, beers etc) in the corner store, find a spot on the concrete benches or stone steps of the church and people-watch to your heart's content. There's also live musical performances and fire-twirling from travelling hippies, public zumba, kids playing futbol and men playing chess to keep you amused. There's also the largest array of food-carts selling food to soak up all the imbibing: hamburgers and hotdogs that will redefine your concepts of fast food, patacones, burritos, juices, arepas etc etc
If you like this, you'll also like Plaza San Diego

DONDE PACHO
For afternoon beers or a cheeky vino, I love Donde Pacho's relaxed space. It's also one of my favourite spots to watch the futbol. Donde Pacho is actually an imported food, wine, liquor store with an outside paved terrace. You can buy wine, american candies (baby ruth? butterfingers?) and imported asian sauces etc. 
If you like this you'll also like Esquina del Orchidea, Los Ultimos Mojicos, Donde El Che

ROOFTOP BARS: EL MIRADOR, MOVICH, CAFE DEL MAR, 51 SKY BAR, BOTIKA
HOTEL BARS: EL CORO, ALMA, 


BAZURTO SOCIAL CLUB
Cool and colourful decor reminiscent of the boisterous Mercado Bazurto, playing equally colourful coastal champeta music live Wednesday to Saturday. And the crab empanadas are exceptional.
If you like this you'll also like Awa Coco and Central Antillana.
Seven 7 Times
The beautiful people of La Movida
Cuban classic: Havana Cafe
Alquimico
Club de Carpinteros, Getsemani
El Diablo, Tropical Waffles
El Baron
Members Only
Casa Cruxada
Clock Pub
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I consider myself something of a food tourist. When I travel, I like to learn about a place, connect with its people and get an understanding of its culture through food. I'm also very greedy and just really enjoy eating a lot!

If you're like me, the first google search you do when you get to a new city is "local cuisine".

So what are the typical foods of Cartagena? Here's 10.

MOJARRA or PARGO FRITO
Fried whole fish with coconut rice, golden fried patacones (smushed and fried plaintain) and a simple salad.

AREPA de HUEVO
A kind of mini pita bread made from ground-up corn, fried, opened, filled with an egg and spiced mince, then re-fried. Served with suero (like a sour cream) and chilli sauce. Also check out the other fried snacks Kibbeh, Carimiñola, Buñuelos and Papas Rellenas.

PAN de BONO
Although accepted to have originated in Cali, you'll find these delicious chewy-moist bread rolls throughout Cartagena. They are made on cornflour, yuca and cheese.. making them super moist and dense. If they are fresh out of the oven they are pretty-much irresistible.

MOTE DE QUESO
A soup made from ñame (yam) and local costeño cheese (similar to feta). It's really rich so a little goes a long way.

CAZUELA DE MARISCOS
Seafood casserole made on a base of coconut milk

POSTA NEGRA CARTAGENERA
A kind of pot roast of meat slowly cooked in panela (like brown sugar). Sweet and savory and tender and delicious.

MONDONGO SOUP
Tripe and offal soup especially consumed on Sundays as a post-booze fix. Also try any Sancocho soup.

TROPICAL FRUITS
The array of tropical fruits here is staggering. Eat them as juices, ice-creams or on their own. Be sure to try Lulo, Nispero, Grenadilla, Papaya, Mango, Mora, Corozo, Mamoncillo etc etc

CEVICHE
Cartagena is ceviche-mad. The dish arrived to Cartagena from the North of Colombia and also via the plethora of Peruvian restaurants that have set up shop here. There's different versions depending upon the origins, but basically it involves raw seafood (fish, prawns etc) "cooked" in the acidic marinade of limes, oil, garlic, onion, tomato, herbs. The Peruvian version also has crunchy toasted corn kernels. See also the prawn/shrimp cocktails made with mayonnaise, tomato sauce, garlic and chilli.

BANANO EN TENTACION
This is usually a side-dish or accompaniment to your corriente lunch. Basically they slow cook banana in Kola Roman -- the bright red soft-drink/soda that is a born and bred Cartagena staple. It tastes.. sweet.

TRES LECHES
A vanilla sponge cake drenched in three "milks": normal milk, condensed milk, and a kind of caramel milk. Ridiculously, hurt-your-teeth sweet.
The famous and fried Arepa e' Huevo
Mmm.. like a passionfruit but super sweet like sherbert. Grenadilla
Warning: Irresistible when hot. Pan de Bono
Another shot of the Arepa e' Huevo
Cocadas: shredded coconut set into mounds with sugar and fruit flavours
Mote de Queso
Posta Negra Cartagenera
Ceviche from the famous La Cevicheria
Offal-ly good Mondongo Soup
Putting lead in your pencil.. Cazuela de Mariscos
Why have one milk when you can have Tres Leches?
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These spots are selected for their convenience, reliability of their wi-fi, the strength of the air-conditioning, the value or desirability of their food/drink offerings and their general ambiance.

To be on the safe side.. Ask if the wifi is working before ordering..



JUAN VALDEZ The thirteen locations of this coffee house are favored by ex-pats and locals alike who get their daily dose of caffeine and internet connection in its highly cooled environment.

ELY Sinfully good chocolate brownies, pretty interior design, usually good wifi, very chilled and quiet workspace.
Getsemani, Calle Larga opposite Getsemani Centro Comercial

MALAGANA Tasty plates, tastier drinks, mum-made chewy chocolate brownies, air-con and wi-fi. The only downside is that it's only open nights (and not on Sundays), but this is the perfect time to order a signature corozo margarita to down while you download.
Getsemani, Calle Tripita y Media

COOPERACION ESPANOLA Enter the historic courtyard of the converted church and go to the library.. it's airconditioned and there's desks and wi-fi and a shhhushhing librarian and a section with children's books that are good for practicing your basic level Spanish. And you don't need to spend a pesito.
Centro, Plaza Santo Domingo

EL BALCON The friendly folk at El Balcon make their bar/cafe/restaurant feel like a home away from home and they won't mind if you while away an hour or so at one of their inside tables or perched on the balcony watching the world go by.
Centro/San Diego, Plaza San Diego

GOKELA This Bocagrande beauty does fresh and healthy better than anyone in Cartagena (and probably Colombia).. the wi-fi and air-con are pumping so you can breeze through your business.
Bocagrande, Cra 3 (in front of La Mansion)

CARIBE PLAZA FOOD COURT Needing a break from shopping? You can grab one of the many tables in the Caribe Plaza food court and use their free wi-fi without buying anything. The downside is it can get fairly noisy depending on the time of day. But FREEEEEEE
Pie de la Popa, Caribe Plaza

ABACO I just love being surrounded by books and timber.. there's something so comforting and satisfying about it. Add in good coffee and free wifi and Abaco is a wi-fi winner.
Centro, Calle Gastebondo

ALIANZA FRANCESA Say oui to wi-fi in the delightful french-styled cafe of Alianza Francesa. Then just TRY to say non to their tempting array of desserts.
Centro/San Diego, Parque Fernandez Madrid

ISABELLAS Another multi-site coffee place (Mall Plaza, Bocagrande etc) that does good coffee, wi-fi and air-con.. there's always plenty of tables so you don't feel like a terrible tightarse if you spend the entire day internetting.
Bocagrande, Avenida San Martin; El Castillo, Mall Plaza









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So.. the plan is that I eventually write longer reviews of each of these places. Also that I update this top 10.. whenever I visit a new worthy inclusion. But to begin.. it will be a list. They won't be any particular order. Stay tuned. (The * is the nearest site or plaza so you can ask directions easily)



LA PERLA Peruvian fusion in fresh-feeling space with killer pisco sours.
Calle de Ayos, Centro Historico (*Cathedral)

TABETAI World class sushi, small and funky interior.
Calle Segunda de Badillo, Centro Historico (*Parque Fernandez Madrid)

MAREA by RAUSCH
Divine views thanks to waterside location - seafood specialists. Save space for dessert!
Centro Convenciones, Getsemani (*Convention Centre)

DON JUAN Deserved recipient of most people's "best restaurant in Cartagena" tag. An emphasis on treating quality ingredients simply with a largely Basque cooking style. Decor is polished bistro. Calle Colegio, Centro Historico (*Gobernacion building)

ANDANTE ALLEGRO VIVACE Fresher-than-fresh homemade pastas, and flavor-focused Italian classics in a tiny, romantic locale.
Calle de la Mantilla (*Plaza Santo Domingo)

MARIA Gorgeous interior design, mega-appealing menu and perfect for (beautiful) people watching. Cocktail list is just as enticing.
Calle Colegio, Centro Historico (*Gobernacion building)

CUZCO Tranquil surrounds, amazing ceviche, excellent staff, live music Thurs-Sun.
Calle Santo Domingo, Centro Historico  (*Plaza Santa Domingo)

DI SILVIO TRATTORIA Some of the best pizza you will eat in your life, served with life music Thurs-Sun inside a roof-less ruined shell of a historic building.
Calle de la Sierpe, Getsemani (*Plaza Trinidad)

KARIB A great way to sample local Cartagenan and Colombian flavours thanks to their 100gram "tapas" menu. The food and service and prices are great.. but sometimes you'll find yourselves as the only people in the restaurant.. which can affect the overall vibe.
Calle Larga, Getsemani (*Hotel Arsenal)

M COCINA Mmm.. a favourite amongst the host of Lebanese restaurants in Cartagena. Welcome to flavour-town. Bocagrande, Calle 6 (*Supermarket Olimpica 24h)

EL BOLICHE CEBICHERIA
Getting props in all the right places.. this tiny space delivers amazing plates of mega freshness and flavour.
Calle Cochera del Hobo, San Diego/Centro Historico (*Parque Fernandez Madrid)


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Feeling saucy? Cartagena's just the spot to get your salsa on! The sounds of salsa fill the summery nights here, inviting you to swivel those hips and move those feet.. There's a range of options to sate, from simple corner bars that will be playing a selection from the genre's greatest hits playbook; famed and traditional salsa bars where expert dancers strut their stuff; bars and clubs with live bands through to more intimate spaces for romantic swaying. And that's just in Centro! If you want to REALLY dance salsa and experience some of that local Cartagena flavour I keep harping on about, you need to head out to the neighbourhood salsa clubs. Here's a list of some of the best salsa options in Cartagena - and remember you can always book in a salsa dance lesson or two to learn the basics or refresh what you already know.
QUIEBRA CANTO

DONDE FIDEL

HAVANA CAFE

CASA DE HABANA

CACHAO

EL CORO

COLOMBIA CARIBE

LOS ULTIMOS MOJICOS

PLATANAL

EL VUELTO

SAFARI

EL YORK


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I went to Mercado Bazurto yesterday and this is what I saw...

These super ripped Costenos keep fit throwing watermelons all day. They asked me if I wanted to take their photo. I said "No! A video!" So they put on a bit of a show for me.

If you'd like to meet colourful characters like these guys, be sure to ask about a tour of the Bazurto Market.
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It's currently May here in Cartagena and there's a whole new batch of tropical fruit loading up the vendors' carts. The mamoncillo is a particular fave. You'll find the branches of firm green balls tied together with string. They cost about 1,000 pesos or 50cents for a decent-sized bag. To eat, crack the middle of the shell-like skin open using your teeth or nails (or a knife if you're that way inclined). The top "lid" will slide off and you'll be able to suck out the tangy fruit inside. Apparently the juice of the mamoncillo can temporarily stain your skin and clothes.. but I haven't experienced any problems using the above technique. It kindof resembles a lychee or longan. Before I knew what this fruit was called, I christened it Fruity Gobstopper because you need to suck the tangy, creamy fruity goodness away from the giant seed inside, giving you that gobstopper-like bulge in your cheek while you do. A single mamoncillo can last you for an hour! As far as I know, "mamon" is another word for "suck" (be very careful using this word in polite company), so fruity gobstopper seems totally apt.
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When I first arrived to Cartagena, I was on a very tight budget. If I couldn't cook at home, I didn't like to spend more than pesos equivalent (US$5) for a meal. These are places I like to eat for cheap. Apologies now for the sometimes approximate addresses and the fact the list is biased towards Getsemani and La Matuna because that's where I live and work. Please send me your tips and recs for cheap eating in other parts of town (add them to the comments section - that would be rad)!!

Restaurante 1596, San Diego, Calle de la Moneda
This delightful restaurant has quickly moved into my number 1 spot for lunch time corrientes. The restaurant is found in a historic house with open air courtyard and air-conditioned dining room. It also has free wifi - win!! Then there's the food! Super flavoursome soup, a rotating mix of different-from-the-norm meat options with tasty sides (they vary depending upon the day but include casseroles, fish, fajitas etc) and they even bring out a little matrimonio (guava paste with cheese dessert) to finish on. 

Rincon del Antioqueno, Bocagrande, near the Olimpica
If you want to feel full without spending money (and you don't mind sacrificing your arteries in the process), Cartagena has the perfect option; fritos! This place makes amazing Kibbeh (the football-shaped Lebanese-originating spiced meatballs. There's also probably the best Pan de Bono in Cartagena. The usual suspects of Arepa de Huevo, Cariminola and Papas Rellenas are also done very well.

Este es el Punto, Getsemani, Calle San Andres
Pretty basic but very acceptable. I think their best dishes are the guisadas (a kind of casserole). This place is especially popular during the p.m. because they are one of the few restaurants that do night-time corrientes at around the 6,000 COP price-point. The crowd is pretty much 50/50 backpackers and locals filling up on the cheap fare.

Street Lunches in La Matuna La Matuna, Near the Olimpica
At just 4,000 pesos, this is one of the cheapest lunches going and really tasty. You'll find the food cart set up in front of the Europa Pool Hall in the Joe Arroyo Mall in La Matuna Commercial area. You'll get a generous serve of whatever meat you choose (all that I've tried are slow-cooked tender and flavoursome with plenty of spices), rice, lentils, salad and cooked banana. I am always the only female that eats here. I sit on the concrete bench with all the old men and joke with them while chewing the (literal) fat.

Fruit Salad La Matuna, near Hotel Stil
Also in La Matuna, but in the neighbouring Plaza Benko (formerly Plazaleta de Telecom) near the Hotel Stil, you'll find a mobile fruit salad cart. For 2,000 pesos, they will cut up and choc-fill a polystyrene container (sorry environment) with an assortment of watermelon, papaya, pineapple, grapes and banana. I think it's excellent value. You can also talk them down to a 1,000 half-serve that is pretty darn filling.

Esquina de Pan de Bono, Centro, Calle de San Agustin
Doing a roaring trade in keeping University students sated, this is my number 1 pick to sample the best in Cartagena's diverse array of tropical juices. They are cheap (around 2,500), freshly blended up and super refreshing during a hot day. The bakery also makes a very good version of the Pan de Bono (the tasty yucca, cheesy bread-roll that is strangely addictive) and this cheese and ham filled flaky pastry goodness that comes of the oven a thing of puffed up golden awesomeness and is then flattened into pizza-style triangles. Sneak your haul across to Juan Valdez and enjoy them in the air-conditined wifi wonderland. 

Ciudad Movil Pizza Getsemani, Calle Espiritu Santo - CLOSED



Laguna Azul Centro Commercial Getsemani, Calle Larga (in front of Donde Pacho).
Another non-carby option, Laguna Azul specialises in ceviches. I like it because the ceviches are real ceviches in the sense that they are not filled with cream and tomato sauce and mayonnaise, but the raw seafood is “cooked” in the acidic citrus-based dressing. If you haven't tried ceviche before you really, really should. It is fresh and zesty and clean tasting. And you don't feel all gluggy and heavy afterwards. I normally get the Corvina which is around 25,000 pesos - a little above budget - but vale la pena. And the Blue Lagoon/Brooke Shields kitch-ness of the restaurant is all nostalgic cool. You can also order inside Don Pacho and add a plate of shaved Jamon Photos!
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Crepes & Waffles Salad Bar Various. Visit http://crepesywaffles.com/
This is the restaurant I eat at more than any other: and my most ordered dish (apart from the amazing ice creams) is the fill-you-own-bowl salad bar.  You are allowed to fill a large bowl or take-away container with as much salad bar that will fit. Considering the general lack of vegetables and diverse salad options in Cartagena, this is a really great deal. Add in free wi-fi and Crepes and Waffles is a favourite ex-pat meet-point. Oh! And we all love the Crepes & Waffles policy of only employing single mothers - it makes the ice-cream taste sweeter.

La Orquidea La Matuna, Avenida Venezuela
Pull up a seat under the amazing giant rubber tree (palito de caucho) and enjoy, al fresco, a big chunk of barbequed meat, served atop a pile of steamed yucca and salad on a wooden platter. The best part is the garlic sauce which will keep vampires and most of the non-garlic-eating population at bay for hours. Who wants to associate with their kind anyway? There's a distinct Cartagena-vibe here – music blares and your neighbouring tables will be filled with men enjoying cervezas and talking mierda. They also have a good rotating selection of soups (often including Mote de Queso) on the menu. Don't leave it too late to arrive. The food is served 12-2. The rest of the time is strictly for drinking. Top tip: If you still have room after your churrasco, go behind the tienda to the little stall frying up golden balls and try the best buñuelo in Cartagena.

Cafe de la Trinidad See review here.


Sunday Chicharones (and night-time fryspot), Manga, Puente Roman, next to Mimo Ice cream, in front of the Dentist.
These crunchy, salty, chewy, porky, fatty pieces of pig fat, still glistening with the oil from the fryer and sitting on top of a pile of yucca.. are so good, you'll wish you had a hangover to be able to fully appreciate them. They are only Sundays. Only from 8am-11ish am. The rest of the time, from 5pm-10pm this spot serves up the best cheesy carimonolas and papas rellenas in Cartagena.

Espiritu Santo Restaurante - Centro, Calle El Porvenir 35-60 
Consistently good food, huge servings, amazing juices. This is the place I take out-of-towners for lunch. It's cheap (but more expensive than my cheap favourites - more like 25,000 and up) but the surroundings are slightly more posh: there's waiters in uniforms and actual menus. It's also super popular with locals and there's always a buzzing atmosphere. There's always at least 4 or 5 fish options and the churasco is also very popular. 
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Como es? Luxe feeling water-side restaurant specialising in seafood
Donde es?
Centro de Convenciones Cartagena de Indias, ph 6544205
Cuanto es? Treat [entrees ~25,000COP mains 35,000-55,000 desserts ~15,000COP
Cerca a? Convention Centre







For those times you want to have a special meal (especially seafood), in special surrounds, with special service, Marea by Rausch is a tops selection.

Found within the Convention Centre, the restaurant has a killer location right beside the water of the Bahia de Animas with enviable views of the historic centre and the impressive San Pedro de Claver dome. I also love the interior design. The colour-scheme is all teales and aquamarines with walls filled with an intricate-looking fish patterned wall paper. Except it's not wallpaper. Those fish were actually all drawn onto the wall by hand using a Sharpie pen. Cool, huh? The white and silver accents (chairs, chandeliers) keeps things fresh and seaside resort-y but still luxe and special.   Cue photo.

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Ok, so right, the food. It's really good. I've found a lot of restaurants in Cartagena have a tendency to overcook seafood. Actually, food generally.. but especially seafood. Not so here. In fact many of the best dishes are raw - tiradito, ceviche, tatare, carpaccio etc which is completely to my tastes.

I also think the prices are really reasonable given the quality. I'll whack up some photos now of some of the plates I tried with the prices.

To the left is the tuna tartare. Really tasty with toasted sesame seed oil. Those giant yellow things are crisp fried ripe plantains. Yum. So this costs 24,900 COP (google is telling me that's about US$13.50). On the right is the octopus carpaccio. Those little coloured dollops are 1. black olive sauce 2. green olive sauce 3. artichoke puree. This was also super fresh tasting. It cost the same price at the tuna tartare.
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For mains I was able to try a mixed seafood rice stew called a Caldoso (top image). The flavours of this were nice and robust, although the calamari was maybe overcooked just a tad. The dish is totally packed with seafood and costs 39,000COP (US$21.35). The other main we sampled was the traditional Cartagena plate: mojarra frita (37,900COP/ US$20.75). This is the dish that is most representative of Cartagena and you will see variations of it served in every restaurant and on every stretch of sand. So how does Marea make it special whilst still keeping it traditional? Well for starters the produce is mega fresh, the execution is excellent and the flavours and balanced well. But the thing that really blew my mind was the fact that they serve this whole fried fish, magically, without bones! It's like the fish of the future! Just cut in, carve it up and enjoy. I'm not sure if this is a common thing or not, but I was definitely impressed.
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So the "Rausch" in the restaurant name, Marea by Rausch, refers to the Rausch Brothers, Colombian celebrity chefs who are just as famous for their top-ranking Criterion Restaurant in Bogota, as they are for "selling out" and creating some menu items for McDonalds. Anyway, they make a great pair because one brother is all about the savoury and the other specialises in pastry and desserts. As a result, the meals at Marea are accompanied by really, really nice bread. And the desserts are spectacular. Look!
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Check out my happy face! Rausch sure know how to do dessert.

So the special dessert sampler platter for 2 is yours for 22,900COP (US$12.54) and the deep dark chocolatey awesomeness of the fondant (oh yeah.. that middle was perfectly runny and gooey) is 16,900COP/US$9.25. Actually, I think it might be really nice to come back to Marea sometime with a pack of girlfriends and calorific intentions and just split dessert.

Service is really good and professional at Rausch, but the times I've been, English wasn't really spoken and the English menu wasn't ready. Not sure if that's a major point for other people but thought it was worth mentioning.

Ambience: the times I've been, the restaurant has been fairly empty. Again, this doesn't really bother me, but if you feel a restaurant needs to buzz to feel right.. this one is more chilled elegance.

Hmm.. I think I kindof got carried away here - apologies for the essay of a description! Overall: Marea by Rausch is really good and highly recommended for a special treat.
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The giant bath at the SoSpa Santa Clara is filled with sweet-fragranced water. It smells like luxury.


When I give tours I often get asked the best place to go for a spa treatment. And my honest reply is that I've only ever been to the one place - the SoSpa at Sofitel Santa Clara. To say that I have always been satisfied is probably the biggest understatement of anyone in the history of the world ever.

The whole experience begins when you enter the luxury hotel, pass the crisply uniformed staff, make your way past the enORmous pool, try not to stare at all the hot brazilian women rocking their thong bikinis, climb the grand staircase and open the doors to the spa. It's cool. It's fresh. It smells like a combination of white florals and tropical fruits. Friendly people greet you. Yes. You think to yourself. This is going to be nice.

You fill in the form and hope no one sees you stuffing your face with the mountain of complimentary dark chocolate squares that fill giant glass vases on the tables. Ditto to the granadilla you crack open and eat. Those friendly people bring you a mint or lavendar infused cold compress and delicious fruity ice-tea served in pretty little cups. You're in bliss and you haven't so much as stuck a single foot into those complimentary white slippers, let alone started any treatments.

Depending upon the treatment you choose, you may also receive access to the pool, gym and turkish steam room as part of the experience. Don't pass this up! I would actually suggest making the appointment for the afternoon, and then spending the morning getting sweaty on the treadmill then in the steam room (they call  it a Hammam), showering in showers with actual hot water, sunning yourself by the pool, doing laps, and using the enormously large fluffy towels and high end toiletries. By the time the treatment actually happens you'll be in a state of total feel-good relaxation it wouldn't matter if the your massage was performed by a clod, it would still feel amazing.

But ofcourse, this being Cartagena's number 1 luxury hotel, the lovely people giving you your treatments are definitely not clods. They are very professional, experienced, smiley, sweet, gentle angels who aren't afraid to rip into your tensed-up muscles if that's what they need. All the Spa services you would expect from a five-star establishment are available: massages, exfoliation, full full-body wraps, pedicures, manicures, beauty etc etc Although most items on the treatment menu use expensive-feeling nature-derived products from Sisley (so nice!), there's also treatments that use the energising and anti-celulitis properties of Colombian coffee, and recently the Spa has developed an extremely special treatment that uses Colombian emeralds as the centrepiece of the treatment.

My first time to the Santa Clara SoSpa was to celebrate the birthday of my gorgeous friend, Tess. We were scaley, dirty, dry and damaged after months of travelling on a budget. The Spa day totally revived and renewed us. As we sat in the post-treatment tea room, clean and plumped by products, wrapped up in giant white towels and nibbling on almonds and walnuts drizzled with honey, we caught each other's eye and just started giggling at the incredible luxuriousness of it all.

Anyway, it all adds up to an amazing treat of an experience.

What's the damage?
I'm going to have to check this, but I think we chose 3 items from the spa menu - an entree (I think this can be a pedicure or maybe an exfoliation), a main (this can be a massage or facial maybe) and a dessert (maybe a wrap?), then we got to use the Hammam steam room, gym, pool, eat chocolates and nuts and fruit AND use the straightening iron in the bathroom all for around  310,000 COP (to be confirmed).

And I think the amazing Sisley 2-hour facials cost around 200,000 COP (again TBC).