BEST RESTAURANTS CARTAGENA
Probably the questions we get asked more than any other.. where should we eat in Cartagena? and, What are your favourite restaurants?
The thing is, those 2 questions actually produce very different responses. Where I think you should eat when you come to Cartagena, are restaurants that represent Cartagena and Colombian cuisine and ingredients or offer something that it isn't common for you all to find back home (at least for one of your meals). But where do I choose to eat on the occasions I'm not cooking for myself? Well, I'm actually often about the non-Colombian choices like anything Asian-inspired, a really amazing cheat-day pizza, ceviche all the ways and all the days, the fish tacos at my friend Diana's restaurant, the desserts at my other friend Valerie's French restaurant, goats cheese salad, veggie and vegan options at least bi-weekly, the types of places I can eat at the bar on my way home from work while scrolling through emails etc BUT potentially, probably, if you have only a limited time in Cartagena and you live in, say, New York.. you might not be so keen to allocate one of your meals to, say, pizza. So.. this is a long way of saying.. Here are some great Cartagena restaurants, arranged in categories that might be helpful for you depending what you are looking for in your Cartagena dining experiences.
OVERALL MUST GO
CELELE
If there's one restaurant that I would recommend to every visitor to Cartagena, it is Celele. Innovative and creative chefs, passionate about showcasing the best produce and techniques of the Colombian Caribbean region delivering world-class cuisine where attention has been paid to absolutely every detail. Also the best bathroom in Cartagena (if that's your thing). Bookings recommended.
LA MULATA
This place is a Cartagena icon for a reason. Traditional home-style Cartagena cooking, beautiful presentation, warm service, colourful ambience, fair prices and a through-and-through local vibe. Actually that was a lot of reasons. If you want to taste unapologetically Cartagena cuisine done right, this is the place. The menu has a focus on seafood such as the traditional whole fried fish with coconut rice or the seafood casserole, but also a range of other meat options, and even a couple of veggie and vegan dishes. If you haven't tried the famous " limonada de coco" yet, this is one of the best versions in the city. And we definitely recommend toasting the fact you are on holidays with the bargain-priced and delicious cocktails. Lunch-time is the most local time, but La Mulata is also now open nights (with a slightly different menu).
FANCY PANTS
DON JUAN
One of the pioneers on the Cartagena dining scene, consistently delivers delicious and beautifully presented food which blends classic Basque cuisine with touches of typical Latin/Colombian flavors. Chic Decor.
LOBO DEL MAR
This is a less formal (and less pretentious) option than the others on the list. It feels warmer and the live music makes thing feel more fun. Consequently this is one of the places I visit most frequently. I love almost everything on the menu. The octopus and chicharron tacos, tuna tataki, the goats cheese salad, the stuffed calamari and the grilled octopus (etc etc etc). I love to come with a group of friends, order as much as possible and share everything.
LA VITROLA
Pretty much every dining list will include La Vitrola as a must visit for a fancy meal out. Can I say that while I love going to La Vitrola, I don't particularly love eating there. For me it's more about the ambiance than the food and I've been known to meet friends and just order drinks. It's the place where Presidents dine, where you'd have a special anniversary dinner, where security detail may be waiting patiently in an unmarked vehicle outside. The walls have witnessed millions of scintillating stories they will never tell. The live music (cuban salsa) is spot on, creating a fun but not interfering vibe, the space is intimate and quite unpretentious, and the service is some of the best in the city (admittedly that isn't necessarily saying a great deal). The dress code of long pants is strictly enforced. Reservations essential. Books out months in advance during high season.
CARMEN
Rob and Carmen, co-owners and co-chefs of Carmen and also Moshi (see below) take food seriously. They scour Colombia and the world for the best ingredients and techniques and inspiration, they study and update unendingly, are obsessed with molecular gastronomy and umami, they invest in their people and they strive to create what they'd consider Michellin-worthy food. Beautiful tree-filled patio looks magical at night (but in summer months you may prefer aircon option)
1621
This is the fine dining restaurant in the Santa Clara hotel led by executive-Chef Dominique Oudin who is classically trained in French cuisine. And it shows. This is beautiful food, made with expensive and often imported luxury ingredients, beautifully executed. Opt for either courtyard (again this can get hot in the warmer months) or a huge, high-ceilinged dining hall (sometimes this can feel a bit cold and lacking in ambience in my opinion)
EL GOBERNADOR BY RAUSCH // MAREA BY RAUSCH
The Rausch brothers (Jorge and Mark) are two of the most well-known chefs in Colombia and when their name appears next to a new restaurant opening, you can be assured of a quality offering. In Cartagena, there are 2 restaurants bearing the Rausch seal: Marea and El Gobernador. El Gobernador, located in the Bastion hotel, offers cuisine d'auteur in an elegant, slightly formal setting (similar to 1621). Marea, offers one of the best dining views in Cartagena, perched alongside Cartagena Bay (enter via the Convention Centre) with the sparkling historic centre as the backdrop. Here, appropriately, seafood is the star of the menu.
ERRE DE RAMÓN FREIXA
It's all the way out in Las Américas (about 25 minute drive) but if you are staying or visiting that side of town, or are the type of person who thinks nothing of traveling for food, Erre is a pretty special fine dining experience championed by acclaimed chef Ramón Freixa (his Madrid restaurant has 2 Michellin stars). There's creative tapas, bloody delicious creamy rice dishes and a set dining menu. Go for a decadent lunch and enjoy the sweeping views across the sea or if you are celebrating a special occasion, the private dining room is super cool.
CLUB DE PESCA
If you are planning a romantic dinner during your stay in Cartagena, I strongly recommend pre-booking a candle-lit table nestled into the wall of this historic fort overlooking the water. There is hands down no more romantic dinner date location in town. Food is seafood focused as you would expect from the location and the name (fishing club). There is nothing revolutionary and prices are high (as with the others on this fancy pants list) but the seafood is fresh and well prepared, service is white-table-cloth formal and, like I said, there's no beating the romance factor of the location.
TRADITIONAL CARIBBEAN/COLOMBIAN:
(fancier)
MAR DE LEVA
This is another of my most recommended options, particularly for groups. It has a fun, colourful, vibrant atmosphere with live salsa band and is a great place to get in the mood for going out. The portions are enormous and perfect for sharing.. particularly the Flinstone-worthy meat dishes like ossobucco or tomahawk and the whole salt-baked fish. The menu includes all the traditional Cartagena/Colombian favourites (chicharrones: drool). This is the restaurant where you totally feel you are on vacation in Cartagena.
CANDÉ
The menu at Candé is 100% Cartagenero, not fusion. The dishes offered are faithful recreations of all the grandma classics, elevated to fine(r) dining level with technique, ingredients and presentation. They have a nightly dance presentation of folkloric dancing and music (actually originating in Colombia, unlike a lot of the salsa themed music most restaurants choose) which I partly appreciate, but also partly feel it comes off a little bit touristy.
DOÑA LOLA
If you're the type of person that stylish surrounds are as important as the food on your plate, then Doña Lola might be the restaurant for you. Housed in the Conde Nast listed boutique-hotel Casa Lola, in the happening Getsemani neighbourhood, you'll find a decadently decorated space that delights wherever the eye may fall. The menu offers Cartagena classics (the cazuela de mariscos is particularly good) and also well-executed Spanish fare in a nod to the city's heritage and the ongoing influence. This may be a good option before heading to the nearby Café Havana or 1968 Salsa Show for some live music and dance.
(More relaxed)
COCINA DE PEPINA
Named for the charismatic chef and sociologist Maria Josefina "Pepina" Yances, Cocina de Pepina gives a colourful home to traditional recipes learned from her journeys throughout the coastal region between Cartagena and Monteria. The restaurant itself is unpretentious, charming and tiny (tables fill up fast), the space dominated by a giant chalkboard menu of items that your host (probably Pepina's nephew, Cristian) will patiently explain to you. The Mote de Queso is highly recommended.
If you don't manage to score a table, Oh La La next door is just next door and is also excellent.
OH LA LA
A beautiful converted house steeped in history, (be sure to have gorgeous host Carolina explain the background to you), Oh La La makes an extremely chic location for a light-filled brunch or lunch or a more moody evening dinner. The menu is based on the classic fare of Caribbean Colombian women, with some fusing of French technique and flavors thanks to Chef Gil. Love their ceviche with peanut sauce their mote de queso, and also everything from the breakfast menu.
QUERO AREPA
Casual and budget friendly option located just down the street from La Mulata in Calle de Queso (Quero Street). Here you'll find a bunch of delicious preparations of the Colombian/Venezuelan classic snack.
MILA
EL SANTÍSIMO
ESPIRITU SANTO
NARCOBOLLO
AMAZING ARABIC
M COCINA
ARABE E INTERNACIONAL
ZAÍTUN
SEAFOOD SPECIALISTS:
LA CEVICHERIA
BOLICHE CEBICHE
EL KILO
MAREA BY RAUSCH
JUAN DEL MAR
CLUB DE PESCA
CASA DE SOCORRO
EL BONY
BAR/TAPAS:
DEMENTE
EL BARON
LUNATICO
AGUA DEL MAR
BAR DEL SUR
JAPANESE/PERUVIAN PLAYERS:
MOSHI
CUZCO
LA PERLA
PERU FUSION
TABETAI
EUROPEAN EXPERTS:
VERA (ITALIAN)
LA DIVA (ITALIAN)
DI SILVIO (ITALIAN)
BACCO (ITALIAN)
EL BURLADOR DE SEVILLE (SPANISH)
MONTMARTE (FRENCH)
OOH LA LA (FRENCH)
LUNCH SPECIALS:
NATIVA CARIBE FUSION
LA MULATA
ESPIRITU SANTO
RESTAURANTE ESPIRITU SANTO
MONTMARTE
EL BISTRO
BAR DEL SUR
MEAT MARVELOUS MEAT:
PATAGONIA
GAUCHA
QUE BRACHO
HARRY'S
KILLER CAFES:
CAFE DEL MURAL
CAFE DE LA PRESENTACION
BEI-YU
ÁBACO
ELY
MILA
LUNATICO
BRIOCHE
SIERVA MARIA
AND......
WHERE WE KEEP GOING BACK OVER AND OVER AGAIN:
(GOOD VALUE, FUN AMBIANCE, CONSISTENTLY GOOD FOOD/DRINK, AT LEAST ONE MENU ITEM THAT IS SUPER HIGH ON THE CRAVINGS LIST, LONG PANTS OPTIONAL, NO NEED TO BOOK.)
MALAGANA
DI SILVIO/ LA DIVA (TIE)
EL BARON
DEMENTE
EL BISTRO
CREPES & WAFFLES
LA CEVICHERIA
The thing is, those 2 questions actually produce very different responses. Where I think you should eat when you come to Cartagena, are restaurants that represent Cartagena and Colombian cuisine and ingredients or offer something that it isn't common for you all to find back home (at least for one of your meals). But where do I choose to eat on the occasions I'm not cooking for myself? Well, I'm actually often about the non-Colombian choices like anything Asian-inspired, a really amazing cheat-day pizza, ceviche all the ways and all the days, the fish tacos at my friend Diana's restaurant, the desserts at my other friend Valerie's French restaurant, goats cheese salad, veggie and vegan options at least bi-weekly, the types of places I can eat at the bar on my way home from work while scrolling through emails etc BUT potentially, probably, if you have only a limited time in Cartagena and you live in, say, New York.. you might not be so keen to allocate one of your meals to, say, pizza. So.. this is a long way of saying.. Here are some great Cartagena restaurants, arranged in categories that might be helpful for you depending what you are looking for in your Cartagena dining experiences.
OVERALL MUST GO
CELELE
If there's one restaurant that I would recommend to every visitor to Cartagena, it is Celele. Innovative and creative chefs, passionate about showcasing the best produce and techniques of the Colombian Caribbean region delivering world-class cuisine where attention has been paid to absolutely every detail. Also the best bathroom in Cartagena (if that's your thing). Bookings recommended.
LA MULATA
This place is a Cartagena icon for a reason. Traditional home-style Cartagena cooking, beautiful presentation, warm service, colourful ambience, fair prices and a through-and-through local vibe. Actually that was a lot of reasons. If you want to taste unapologetically Cartagena cuisine done right, this is the place. The menu has a focus on seafood such as the traditional whole fried fish with coconut rice or the seafood casserole, but also a range of other meat options, and even a couple of veggie and vegan dishes. If you haven't tried the famous " limonada de coco" yet, this is one of the best versions in the city. And we definitely recommend toasting the fact you are on holidays with the bargain-priced and delicious cocktails. Lunch-time is the most local time, but La Mulata is also now open nights (with a slightly different menu).
FANCY PANTS
DON JUAN
One of the pioneers on the Cartagena dining scene, consistently delivers delicious and beautifully presented food which blends classic Basque cuisine with touches of typical Latin/Colombian flavors. Chic Decor.
LOBO DEL MAR
This is a less formal (and less pretentious) option than the others on the list. It feels warmer and the live music makes thing feel more fun. Consequently this is one of the places I visit most frequently. I love almost everything on the menu. The octopus and chicharron tacos, tuna tataki, the goats cheese salad, the stuffed calamari and the grilled octopus (etc etc etc). I love to come with a group of friends, order as much as possible and share everything.
LA VITROLA
Pretty much every dining list will include La Vitrola as a must visit for a fancy meal out. Can I say that while I love going to La Vitrola, I don't particularly love eating there. For me it's more about the ambiance than the food and I've been known to meet friends and just order drinks. It's the place where Presidents dine, where you'd have a special anniversary dinner, where security detail may be waiting patiently in an unmarked vehicle outside. The walls have witnessed millions of scintillating stories they will never tell. The live music (cuban salsa) is spot on, creating a fun but not interfering vibe, the space is intimate and quite unpretentious, and the service is some of the best in the city (admittedly that isn't necessarily saying a great deal). The dress code of long pants is strictly enforced. Reservations essential. Books out months in advance during high season.
CARMEN
Rob and Carmen, co-owners and co-chefs of Carmen and also Moshi (see below) take food seriously. They scour Colombia and the world for the best ingredients and techniques and inspiration, they study and update unendingly, are obsessed with molecular gastronomy and umami, they invest in their people and they strive to create what they'd consider Michellin-worthy food. Beautiful tree-filled patio looks magical at night (but in summer months you may prefer aircon option)
1621
This is the fine dining restaurant in the Santa Clara hotel led by executive-Chef Dominique Oudin who is classically trained in French cuisine. And it shows. This is beautiful food, made with expensive and often imported luxury ingredients, beautifully executed. Opt for either courtyard (again this can get hot in the warmer months) or a huge, high-ceilinged dining hall (sometimes this can feel a bit cold and lacking in ambience in my opinion)
EL GOBERNADOR BY RAUSCH // MAREA BY RAUSCH
The Rausch brothers (Jorge and Mark) are two of the most well-known chefs in Colombia and when their name appears next to a new restaurant opening, you can be assured of a quality offering. In Cartagena, there are 2 restaurants bearing the Rausch seal: Marea and El Gobernador. El Gobernador, located in the Bastion hotel, offers cuisine d'auteur in an elegant, slightly formal setting (similar to 1621). Marea, offers one of the best dining views in Cartagena, perched alongside Cartagena Bay (enter via the Convention Centre) with the sparkling historic centre as the backdrop. Here, appropriately, seafood is the star of the menu.
ERRE DE RAMÓN FREIXA
It's all the way out in Las Américas (about 25 minute drive) but if you are staying or visiting that side of town, or are the type of person who thinks nothing of traveling for food, Erre is a pretty special fine dining experience championed by acclaimed chef Ramón Freixa (his Madrid restaurant has 2 Michellin stars). There's creative tapas, bloody delicious creamy rice dishes and a set dining menu. Go for a decadent lunch and enjoy the sweeping views across the sea or if you are celebrating a special occasion, the private dining room is super cool.
CLUB DE PESCA
If you are planning a romantic dinner during your stay in Cartagena, I strongly recommend pre-booking a candle-lit table nestled into the wall of this historic fort overlooking the water. There is hands down no more romantic dinner date location in town. Food is seafood focused as you would expect from the location and the name (fishing club). There is nothing revolutionary and prices are high (as with the others on this fancy pants list) but the seafood is fresh and well prepared, service is white-table-cloth formal and, like I said, there's no beating the romance factor of the location.
TRADITIONAL CARIBBEAN/COLOMBIAN:
(fancier)
MAR DE LEVA
This is another of my most recommended options, particularly for groups. It has a fun, colourful, vibrant atmosphere with live salsa band and is a great place to get in the mood for going out. The portions are enormous and perfect for sharing.. particularly the Flinstone-worthy meat dishes like ossobucco or tomahawk and the whole salt-baked fish. The menu includes all the traditional Cartagena/Colombian favourites (chicharrones: drool). This is the restaurant where you totally feel you are on vacation in Cartagena.
CANDÉ
The menu at Candé is 100% Cartagenero, not fusion. The dishes offered are faithful recreations of all the grandma classics, elevated to fine(r) dining level with technique, ingredients and presentation. They have a nightly dance presentation of folkloric dancing and music (actually originating in Colombia, unlike a lot of the salsa themed music most restaurants choose) which I partly appreciate, but also partly feel it comes off a little bit touristy.
DOÑA LOLA
If you're the type of person that stylish surrounds are as important as the food on your plate, then Doña Lola might be the restaurant for you. Housed in the Conde Nast listed boutique-hotel Casa Lola, in the happening Getsemani neighbourhood, you'll find a decadently decorated space that delights wherever the eye may fall. The menu offers Cartagena classics (the cazuela de mariscos is particularly good) and also well-executed Spanish fare in a nod to the city's heritage and the ongoing influence. This may be a good option before heading to the nearby Café Havana or 1968 Salsa Show for some live music and dance.
(More relaxed)
COCINA DE PEPINA
Named for the charismatic chef and sociologist Maria Josefina "Pepina" Yances, Cocina de Pepina gives a colourful home to traditional recipes learned from her journeys throughout the coastal region between Cartagena and Monteria. The restaurant itself is unpretentious, charming and tiny (tables fill up fast), the space dominated by a giant chalkboard menu of items that your host (probably Pepina's nephew, Cristian) will patiently explain to you. The Mote de Queso is highly recommended.
If you don't manage to score a table, Oh La La next door is just next door and is also excellent.
OH LA LA
A beautiful converted house steeped in history, (be sure to have gorgeous host Carolina explain the background to you), Oh La La makes an extremely chic location for a light-filled brunch or lunch or a more moody evening dinner. The menu is based on the classic fare of Caribbean Colombian women, with some fusing of French technique and flavors thanks to Chef Gil. Love their ceviche with peanut sauce their mote de queso, and also everything from the breakfast menu.
QUERO AREPA
Casual and budget friendly option located just down the street from La Mulata in Calle de Queso (Quero Street). Here you'll find a bunch of delicious preparations of the Colombian/Venezuelan classic snack.
MILA
EL SANTÍSIMO
ESPIRITU SANTO
NARCOBOLLO
AMAZING ARABIC
M COCINA
ARABE E INTERNACIONAL
ZAÍTUN
SEAFOOD SPECIALISTS:
LA CEVICHERIA
BOLICHE CEBICHE
EL KILO
MAREA BY RAUSCH
JUAN DEL MAR
CLUB DE PESCA
CASA DE SOCORRO
EL BONY
BAR/TAPAS:
DEMENTE
EL BARON
LUNATICO
AGUA DEL MAR
BAR DEL SUR
JAPANESE/PERUVIAN PLAYERS:
MOSHI
CUZCO
LA PERLA
PERU FUSION
TABETAI
EUROPEAN EXPERTS:
VERA (ITALIAN)
LA DIVA (ITALIAN)
DI SILVIO (ITALIAN)
BACCO (ITALIAN)
EL BURLADOR DE SEVILLE (SPANISH)
MONTMARTE (FRENCH)
OOH LA LA (FRENCH)
LUNCH SPECIALS:
NATIVA CARIBE FUSION
LA MULATA
ESPIRITU SANTO
RESTAURANTE ESPIRITU SANTO
MONTMARTE
EL BISTRO
BAR DEL SUR
MEAT MARVELOUS MEAT:
PATAGONIA
GAUCHA
QUE BRACHO
HARRY'S
KILLER CAFES:
CAFE DEL MURAL
CAFE DE LA PRESENTACION
BEI-YU
ÁBACO
ELY
MILA
LUNATICO
BRIOCHE
SIERVA MARIA
AND......
WHERE WE KEEP GOING BACK OVER AND OVER AGAIN:
(GOOD VALUE, FUN AMBIANCE, CONSISTENTLY GOOD FOOD/DRINK, AT LEAST ONE MENU ITEM THAT IS SUPER HIGH ON THE CRAVINGS LIST, LONG PANTS OPTIONAL, NO NEED TO BOOK.)
MALAGANA
DI SILVIO/ LA DIVA (TIE)
EL BARON
DEMENTE
EL BISTRO
CREPES & WAFFLES
LA CEVICHERIA