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CHAMPETA CONQUERING THE WORLD

20/1/2018

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It’s Saturday and your Cartagena friends have invited you to join them for a night out in a typical “disco”. “What kind of music do they play?” you ask, nervously wondering if they will expect you to move your hips and feet in the way they all seem inherently able to do. “Crossover”, they confidently reply. Err, right. For the uninitiated, this basically means an ongoing medley of latin hits covering genres from salsa to merengue to vallenato to electronica. The night proceeds normally enough; there’s lots of wiggling, lots of singing along, and way too many shots of “guaro”. And then, suddenly, the music changes and so does the entire atmosphere. This new song has a kind of happy, buoyant melody and everyone starts grinning. ‘It’s Champeta!’’ Your friend tells you excitedly. Some couples glue together for some serious rhythmic grinding, others start marching theatrically on the spot, others start doing something that reminds you of the funky chicken. The music is catchy, it’s joyful - and you’re hooked.
What you don’t know is that Champeta’s inclusion in this crossover medley, not just in Cartagena, but across Colombia, is a relatively recent phenomenon.
Back when Champeta, or as it was originally known, Terapia, was the musical “therapy” for Cartagena’s hardworking and impoverished Afro-Descendants, Colombia’s “well-to-do” upper classes considered it low-class and vulgar, indicative of a classist society that associated black culture with undesirable. In those days (we’re talking the 70s and 80s), being called a “champetudo” was considered an insult. An entire subculture grew around the genre in defiance; dance, language, art and fashion. Now, decades later, Champeta’s undeniable appeal has earned it a cool-club status that has all Colombians and the rest of the world clamouring to join: National top 10 lists will feature at least 3 Champeta songs, and reformed reggaeton princesses are now trying to learn thost “vulgar” dance moves. If you don’t want to be left out, here’s some Champeta basics to get you started.

Champeta - comes from the word for machete, which the workers arriving to dance at the picós would wear tied around their waist after their day’s shift. Some of the dance steps incorporate a machete chopping action reflecting this.

Picó - The enormous sound-systems that were originally transported to different neighborhoods on the back of “pickup” trucks. The music machines would be painted with images and graphics that would then later give the name to the picó, such as El Tigre or the most famous, El Rey de Rocha.

Meque or meke - is the force and potency of the sound system and the general energy and frenzy of a champeta song.

Espeluque - The third part in a champeta song where the rhythm changes and gets more intense and everyone is whipped into such a frenzy, their hair ends up a big mess

El Caballito - one of the more iconic dance moves represents riding a little horse. Also check out La Borracha and La Camita.

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STREETFOOD IN CARTAGENA

20/1/2018

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EATING THE STREET IN CARTAGENA

Whether you are chasing a stopover snack or something more substantial, a healthy start or a sweet denouement, Cartagena’s streets provide! Eating the street is a way to plug into the local culture and gain insight into the daily lives, as you enjoy food the way Cartageneros do. It’s also extremely tasty. So arm yourselves with an appetite and an adventurous attitude and go explore. Here’s some street treats to look out for:

Arepa e’ huevo - Probably the most iconic Cartagena street snack, the arepa e’huevo is a twice-fried golden circular cornmeal parcel filled with egg and meat. Must try.

Carimañola - Made from the sticky yuca dough, Carimañolas can be stuffed with meat or cheese before frying.

Papa Rellena - Yet another deep-fried delight, the Papa Rellena (literally translated as “stuffed potato”) is cooked potato balls with meat, onions and spiced dipped into a batter, then fried until crunchy.

Kibbeh - Another fried treat, the kibbeh is a tasty legacy of the Arabic immigration to Cartagena. It’s made from bulgar wheat, finely ground beef, onions and spices.

Mango biche - Cartageneros love their mango green (unripe), crunchy, and doused in lime juice, salt and pepper. Mango biche is also the renowned preferred craving food for pregnant women. Now you know.

Bollos - These leaf-wrapped rolls are similar to a Mexican tamale and are made by steaming cornmeal, plantains, yuca, coconut, or any other kind of masa inside a bijao leaf. They are then usually enjoyed with a few chunks of the local cheese: queso costeño. They can also be sometimes found,stuffed with meat and vegetables.

Patacones - twice-fried plantains are pisa’o (flattened) dipped in salty, garlic water and topped with cheese, meat, salad, sauces, or simply enjoyed on their own.

Pesca’o - You’ll hear this food before you see it. Listen out for the men walking the streets with their giant silver buckets calling out “Pesca’o Pesca’o!!” What you’ll receive is a piece of salty fried fish accompanied by salty steamed yuca and wrapped up in a piece of brown paper.

Coctél de Camaron - If you thought the famous shrimp coctkail died after the 80s, think again! In Cartagena cups filled with a mix of shrimp, onion, tomato, mayo and lots of garlic can be found all along Avenida Venezuela. You can even eat it under a giant Sombrero Vuelta’o hat!

Tropical fruits - Depending on the season, you can find all manner of strange and exotic tropical fruits like lulo, granadilla, nispero, papaya, guanabana, corozo, guama, zapote etc Some can be eaten there and then, others are better mixed into a juice.

Postres Palenqueros - Look out for the ladies in beautiful coloured dresses carrying bowls on their head often the treasures they are transporting are an array of traditional sweets such as cocadas (coconut mounds) enyucado (coconut and yuca cake) bolitas de tamarindo (sugar-coated tamarind balls) and alegría (puffed corn brown-sugar and coconut balls).

Agua e Coco - Known as natures energy drink, you can order the coconut whole, or drink the water en bolsita, ripping open the tiny plastic bags with your teeth.

Salpicón - This colourful, sweet cup is kind of like a drinkable fruit-salad laced with lots of sugar.

Raspa’o - Cartagena’s version of the snow cone, Raspaó is shaved ice topped with flavoured syrup. Popular flavours include tamarindo and Kola Roman.

Tinto - Need an energy boost with all this eating? Never fea! A tiny cup of caffeine is always close at hand thanks to the roaming tinto salesmen. Look for the men carrying thermoses and cigarettes. The coffee usually comes pre-sweetened and is usually, surprisingly, extremely hot.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN EXPLORING THE WORLD OF STREETFOOD IN CARTAGENA BOOK INTO ONE OF OUR FOOD + CULTURE TOURS OR REQUEST IT AS PART OF YOUR PRIVATE TOUR.


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CARTAGENA ON A PLATE - THE BEST TYPICAL DISHES OF CARTAGENA

20/1/2018

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With uber talented chefs, a bounty of incredible ingredients and a strong tourist dollar stimulating competition, in Cartagena there are no shortage of quality international eating options vying for attention. But if you’re the type of traveller that feels savouring the local gastronomic delights is an essential part of the experience - these are some of the home-grown typical dishes that should be high on your must-try list.*

CEVICHE + COCTEL

Whilst it’s the Peruvians who mostly claim credit for the culinary blessing that is ceviche, the dish also has Colombian origins, with indigenous groups using local fruits to “cook” and preserve fish and seafood since waaaay back in the day. Upon settling, the Spanish combined this local method with their own popular dish of escabeche, and Cartagena has been enjoying the results ever since. The typical ceviche is prepared by marinating the raw fish/seafood in citrus (like lime) or fruit (like tamarind or mango) until “cooked” by the acidic juices. Herbs, toasted corn, peppers, onions and other spices can also be combined to create a variety of different versions. Similar concept, but with different execution, the coctél de camaron is a kind-of kickback to the seventies when the beloved shrimp cocktail was the height of fine-dining. In this case the pre-cooked seafood is mixed with tomato sauce, mayo and heap of garlic, and offered from beaches to roadside to restaurants all over the city.
Try it at (gosh I need a separate best of ceviche list!!)
Laguna Azul
Malagana
La Cevicheria
Alquimico
La Mulata
El Boliche
El Gramo
Cuzco
La Perla
Sombrero Vueltiao (look for the giant striped hat for the best streetside shrimp cocktail)



ARROZ APASTELA’O (PASTEL)

A specialty of the Caribbean Coast, this rice dish is prepared with the meat and stock of chicken or pork, vegetables like beans, carrots and peas, olives, capers and yellow achiote then wrapped up in a green bijao leaf and steamed. The result is a convenient parcel of moist deliciousness that can be unwrapped and enjoyed wherever you fancy.
Try it at
Your neighbourhood window in Getsemani (especially December 26-30)
Narcobollo (Manga)
Ohlala
Candé



BANDEJA COSTEÑA

The typical plate from the coast, this dish consists of a whole fried fish (mojarra or pargo are most common), golden patacon (fried green plantain) and the revelation that is coconut rice (seriously, so good). If you’re lucky you’ll get a bowl of taste-the-ocean fish soup on the side. For maximum enjoyment, eat using your hands while your toes are in the sand and with a champeta musical soundtrack.
Try it at
La Perla Negra (La Boquilla)
Kiosko Bony (Bocagrande)
Espiritu Santo
La Mulata
Candé
Narcobollo (Manga)


SOPA DE HIGADETE
This can be a bit harder to find, but this traditional soup made with sweet ripe plantain, beef liver and coconut milk is a taste sensation.
Try it at
Candé Restaurant
The home of someone's grandma

MOTE DE QUESO
Another main-meal soup, this plate is especially popular at Easter because it is completely meat-free (making it a great choice for vegetarians). It is prepared by cooking ñame (a root vegetable similar to potato) with salty cheese (queso costeño) and lots of onion. Cheesy soup? Yes, please.
Try it at 
Quero Arepa
Espiritu Santo
Cocina de Pepina


CAZUELA DE MARISCOS
Back when the Spanish first arrived, finding a land devoid of olive oil and chickpeas they had to improvise. The delicious result is this super rich casserole chock-full of seafood and cooked in a creamy-coconut sauce.

Try it at
Casa Socorro
Candé
Cocina de Pepina
La Mulata
Marea by Rausch


*for the sake of space this list is focused on main plates. We’ll save snacks and desserts for another time.

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    A collection of musings, insights and experiences gathered by an energetic and enthusiastic Australian girl loving life in Cartagena, Colombia.

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