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CARTAGENA SHOPPING: WHAT TO BUY

30/8/2013

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Here's some shopping suggestions on the top souvenirs to remember your stay.







MOCHILAS Brightly coloured or neutral toned natural fibre handwoven bags with striking geometric patterns. They hail from indigenous artisans from La Guajira and near Santa Marta. Prices vary depending on quality... but they aren't cheap! They hover around the $50 mark. Buy from the street, from the wide collection at   or get fancy versions in boutiques like St Dom.

BIKINI As Colombia's and much of Latin America's beach-side playground, Cartagena is also home to some of the most innovative and beautiful beachwear designs. I think one of the brightly patterned, sometimes bejewelled bikinis would make an awesome souvenir. Or for the men, the tropical kitschy bermuda shorts are completely rad. Go to St Dom Touché, Del Mar, Ondade Mar in Centro, Hookipa in Bocagrande or Laguna Rose in Mall Plaza for a dazzling selection of all the top brands.

HATS Panama hats in every colour under the rainbow, the traditional black and white weave of the Vueltiao hat or one of Planeta Champeta's urban cool gorras.. you are challenged to stop at just one!

ANTIQUES By now you're sure to have noticed all the incredible doorknockers adorning the historic houses here. Why not buy one of your own? El Arcon Anticuario sells replica doorknockers together with other amazing artefacts. Or in Getsemani, check out the awesome Ocho Reales Maritime Artefacts and Collectable store on Calle Larga (near the Puente Roman).

ART I love buying art when I travel..  in Cartagena it can be a bit more difficult to unearth the gems.. it seems to be  touristy mass produced paint by numbers from the street, or super expensive gallery pieces. There are a few good options if you know where to look. Book in an art tour or alternatively, I can also put you directly in touch with some of my most favourite artists and photographers here for a unique souvenir that will appreciate (and be appreciated) forever.

EMERALDS Colombia is responsible (according to Wikipedia) for 70-90% of the world's emeralds. The mines are mostly located outside of Bogota in Boyaco.. but the stores and workshops in Cartagena are the most famous retailers. Gem traders come to wield deals on the sparkly shiny stones with their haul valued at considerably higher prices in the US and European markets. So potentially you can pick up a bargain.. Mostly though I just think they are super pretty. Check out Lucy Jewelry, Elia Jewelery and the amazing designs of Paula Mendoza.

CIGARS I know less than nothing about the Cuban cigars sold here, except that the ones on the street are usually fake and you should probably go to a reputable place like La Cava del Puro to purchase with confidence. Also a great place to buy the best Rum Colombia has to offer.

MUSIC Remember dancing your nights away by purchasing some of the musical mixes from Cartagena - salsa, champeta, cumbia, porro, meringue, reggaeton. There's dozens of street vendors who can't wait to load you up with ripped versions of all the classics.

LINEN Nothing says vay-cay like linen. Holidaying Colombians take great delight in wearing a wardrobe strictly comprised of white linen when they come to Cartagena. Blend in and stock up on this luxe staple. Special occasions and weddings call for a Guayabera; a tailored-button-up shirt.

More? I kept to 10 but there's also a bunch of beautiful artisan-type goodies available around town that deserves a mention.. like the brilliantly bright designs of Alvipop, who takes the stereotypical tourist souvenirs of the palenque fruit woman and the statue of catalina and then paints them in fluroscent make-you-happy colours. 
Other good souvenirs available from the supermarket: Santander Chocolate, Juan Valdez Coffee and Copelia Coco and Arequipe Cocadas. Mmmm...

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CARTAGENA RESTAURANTS: BEST VEGETARIAN

30/8/2013

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So I'm going to ignore the vegetarians that eat seafood and just concentrate on non-pescatorians and vegans.

It's not easy being green here.. but it's not impossible and there's definitely some good options if you know where to look. Also a lot of the street snacks are vego friendly (like the carimola arepa de queso and arepa de huevo sin carne)..  not to mention all that fruit!

TORRE LUNA
With an ENTIRE vegetarian menu and vegan listed menu items this place is the best vegetarian restaurant in Cartagena. Above is a picture of the vegetarian rice.
Centro, Calle de Cuartel

GIRASOLES
Specialist vegetarian health foody cuisine only open for breakfast and lunch.
San Diego, Calles de los Puntales

SOL DE INDIA
Tasty, healthy, good-valued vegetarian fare with very pleasant yoga-types attending to your every whim. Lunch. Also try the Hare Krishna vego lunch at the Sanctuario del Yoga for a bargain 5,000.
San Diego Calle Tumbamuertos

GOKELA
Healthy wraps, salads and soups with plenty of meat-free, high protein options on offer.
Bocagrande, opposite La Mansion

CREPES 'N' WAFFLES
Plenty of vegetarian options and an awesome salad bar that features high-protein quinoa, beans and legumes.

GANESHA
Indian restaurant with good vegetarian choices available for the non-meat eaters. Also try Pardesh in Getsemani.
San Diego, Calle de las Bovedas

EL BISTRO
Again.. not a vegetarian restaurant.. but there's good options like vegetabl-y pasta, stirfries etc in this friendly euro-colombo fusion bistro. Also.. makes the best bread in Cartagena for when you tire of the sweet, spongey stuff they call bread here.
Centro, Calle de Ayos

BORDER BURRITO CO
Bean burritos and salads, tacos and bean soups.. all make good vegetarian-friendly meals.
Bocagrande, Avenida San Martin

TRATTORIA DI SILVIO
I'm including this here solely due to their amazing apple, blue cheese, basil and balsamic pizza. Goddamn it is good.
Getsemani, Calle de Serpientes

M COCINA
The lebanese restaurants of Bocagrande have really good meat-free options for vegetarians and vegans.. falafels and hummus and dips and platters etc etc. Also try La Dulceria for the best meal-salads in the city.
Bocagrande, Calle 6

**Also noteworthy: the vegetable carpaccio with goats cheese from Don Juan. Simple and divine! And the vegetarian sushi roll from Tabetai






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CARTAGENA THINGS TO DO: TOP TOURS

30/8/2013

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Tourism in Cartagena is still fairly un-developed and the options are fairly limited. I think these are some of the best.. and.. um.. ofcourse I'm going to recommend myself in top spot!










CARTAGENA CONNECTIONS TOURS

So the Free Walking Tour is more and more popular every day and my foodie tours are going great guns. Basically you get my company for 2-3 hours and I spew forth my local knowledge in a hopefully entertaining and informative way, while you see the sites and sample Cartagena flavours. You can also hire me to design a specialised tour, just for you.. or to be your personal guide. And stay tuned because I'm also planning to launch a salsa/nightlife tour soon. Yay yay yay.. go me!

PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR
This will definitely be one of your highlights. Do it!

SEGWAY TOUR
There's actually two operators of Segway Tours in Cartagena (can you believe it?!) but Cesar is the best! This is the perfect option to learn some of the history and architecture of Cartagena without dying of sweaty heat. Plus, Segways are cool.

BAY TOUR

PALENQUE TOUR

ROSARIO ISLANDS TOUR

VOLCANO AND MANGROVES TOUR


LA BOQUILLA COCONUT WORKSHOP
Organised by the lovely Nina, this is an amazing day spent on the beaches of La Boquilla focused on the amazing coconut. You'll cook and craft with this Caribbean treasure, meet local families and learn from their traditional uses of coconut.


I want more options!! Contact me if you offer different, interesting, cool, awesome tours or activities within Cartagena!



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CARTAGENA NIGHTLIFE: TOP BARS AND CLUBS

30/8/2013

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Want to know where to shimmy and shake, shmooze and booze in Cartagena?
During high-season (Nov-Jan) EVERYWHERE is good.. but the rest of the time Cartagena's diminutive population means it can be a bit difficult to find a place that's pumping. And if it's Monday or Tuesday, pretty much impossible.
If you want to get your party on.. these are the most reliable picks.

BAZURTO SOCIAL CLUB
Cool and colourful decor reminiscent of the boisterous Mercado Bazurto, playing equally colourful coastal champeta music live Wednesday to Saturday. And the crab empanadas are exceptional.
If you like this you'll also like Awa Coco and Central Antillana.

LA MOVIDA

The really expensive drinks end up seeming like good value considering the quality of the people, the music and party you'll encounter here. On Friday and Saturday nights everyone invariably ends up at La Movida from midnight onwards. It's playground for Colombia's rich and beautiful but without pretension. Open 7 days [pictured above] .
If you like this you'll also like Milagrosa La Guerrera.

DEMENTE
This place is cooooool. It's a tapas bar in a restored shell of an ancient building with the bustling Plaza Trinidad on its doorstep. The music is always spot on, the vibe is chilled but chevere and the tapas is really really good. They also have beer on tap for 2mil. A great pre and post dinner locale. Oh! And can I be sexist and mention the fact that owner Nico is extremely easy on the eye?
If you like this you'll also like Via Tapia.

HAVANA
I have  my issues with Havana (I feel they deliberately try to rip off foreigners) but there's no denying the awesome salsa ambiance and amazing live music of this chunk of Cuba in Cartagena.
If you like this, you'll also like Cachao and Casa de Habana.

FRAGMA
The best option if you're looking for a proper "club". It has 3 rooms with different music styles in each - crossover, house/electro, indie.
If you like this you'll also like Mister Babilla and Tu Candela and Babar.

MALAGANA
You'll feel right at home at Malagana almost immediately thanks to the warm energy of the Ordosgoitia women (Diana, Maria Caro and their mother, Magaly) and the rest of their family. It's like my "Cheers".. where everybody knows my naaaaame. The stylish but welcoming resto-bar is decked out in beautiful artworks and photos from the talented sisters and the mosaic-tiled rooftop terrace is perfect for soaking up the romantic night-time ondas of Getsemani.
If you like this you'll also like El Balcon.

TASCA MARIA
Want to flirt with foreigners? This is the place to mingle with the host of backpackers that call Getsemani home for 3-4 nights. Wednesday nights are busiest with the outside street filled to capacity with tanned travellers warming up pre-Media Luna hostel. Often the street party is so good they'll never leave. Oh! And DJ Cheff sure knows how to work a crowd.
If you like this you'll also like Mama LLena, Media Luna Hostel, The Roof.

EL CIELO
I just love rooftop terrazas and Cartagena is sorely lacking in them. El Cielo is the venue I've chosen to host my monthly parties on the last 6 occasions. The views are incredible and the breezes are delicious.
If you like this, you'll also like Terraza del Quartel Fijo

BOURBON STREET
Always a reliable bet for a fun night. The live bands rock out Latin and world rock classics, the staff get everybody animated and the crowd is happy and enjoyable. Ignore the fact that they play THE EXACT SAME SONGS every night and get caught up in the crazy fun.
If you like this you'll also like Leon de Bavaria, HardRock Cafe, Cafe San Diego FM

PLAZA TRINIDAD
Ok.. so it's not exactly a bar, but in a town that encourages public drinking, Plaza Trinidad may as well be one. Buy your booze (rum, aguardiente, beers etc) in the corner store, find a spot on the concrete benches or stone steps of the church and people-watch to your heart's content. There's also live musical performances and fire-twirling from travelling hippies, public zumba, kids playing futbol and men playing chess to keep you amused. There's also the largest array of food-carts selling food to soak up all the imbibing: hamburgers and hotdogs that will redefine your concepts of fast food, patacones, burritos, juices, arepas etc etc
If you like this, you'll also like Plaza San Diego

.. and because I am incapable of sticking to 10 in any of these lists..

DONDE PACHO
For afternoon beers or a cheeky vino, I love Donde Pacho's relaxed space. It's also one of my favourite spots to watch the futbol. Donde Pacho is actually an imported food, wine, liquor store with an outside paved terrace. You can buy wine, american candies (baby ruth? butterfingers?) and imported asian sauces etc.
If you like this you'll also like Esquina del Orchidea, Los Ultimos Mojicos

LA CAPONERA
This should actually be a lot higher up on the list because it is really one of my most favourite places. It's open every night til very late so is sometimes the only option for schoolnight shenanigans. The prices are cheap, the decor is kitschy cool and they play all the best salsa songs to get you dancing. It's also great for people watching folk on their way to and from the old town.
If you like this you'll also like Quiebra-canto and Donde Fidel

CASA DE CERVEZA
The big drawcard for this place is the location -- sitting on top one of the baluartes of the historic wall that encircles the city, looking onto the twinkling lights of the Bay. They do a novelty thing where you get this big cylinder of beer with multiple taps so you can all share it at the table. But for me, this gimmick just makes for warm beer.
If you like this you'll also like Cafe del Mar

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CARTAGENA FOOD: TOP LOCAL DISHES TO TRY

29/8/2013

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I consider myself something of a food tourist. When I travel, I like to learn about a place, connect with its people and get an understanding of its culture through food. I'm also very greedy and just really enjoy eating a lot!

If you're like me, the first google search you do when you get to a new city is "local cuisine".

So what are the typical foods of Cartagena? Here's 10.

MOJARRA or PARGO FRITO
Fried whole fish with coconut rice, golden fried patacones (smushed and fried plaintain) and a simple salad.

AREPA de HUEVO
A kind of mini pita bread made from ground-up corn, fried, opened, filled with an egg and spiced mince, then re-fried. Served with suero (like a sour cream) and chilli sauce. Also check out the other fried snacks Kibbeh, Carimiñola, Buñuelos and Papas Rellenas.

PAN de BONO
Although accepted to have originated in Cali, you'll find these delicious chewy-moist bread rolls throughout Cartagena. They are made on cornflour, yuca and cheese.. making them super moist and dense. If they are fresh out of the oven they are pretty-much irresistible.

MOTE DE QUESO
A soup made from ñame (yam) and local costeño cheese (similar to feta). It's really rich so a little goes a long way.

CAZUELA DE MARISCOS
Seafood casserole made on a base of coconut milk

POSTA NEGRA CARTAGENERA
A kind of pot roast of meat slowly cooked in panela (like brown sugar). Sweet and savory and tender and delicious.

MONDONGO SOUP
Tripe and offal soup especially consumed on Sundays as a post-booze fix. Also try any Sancocho soup.

TROPICAL FRUITS
The array of tropical fruits here is staggering. Eat them as juices, ice-creams or on their own. Be sure to try Lulo, Nispero, Grenadilla, Papaya, Mango, Mora, Corozo, Mamoncillo etc etc

CEVICHE
Cartagena is ceviche-mad. The dish arrived to Cartagena from the North of Colombia and also via the plethora of Peruvian restaurants that have set up shop here. There's different versions depending upon the origins, but basically it involves raw seafood (fish, prawns etc) "cooked" in the acidic marinade of limes, oil, garlic, onion, tomato, herbs. The Peruvian version also has crunchy toasted corn kernels. See also the prawn/shrimp cocktails made with mayonnaise, tomato sauce, garlic and chilli.

BANANO EN TENTACION
This is usually a side-dish or accompaniment to your corriente lunch. Basically they slow cook banana in Kola Roman -- the bright red soft-drink/soda that is a born and bred Cartagena staple. It tastes.. sweet.

TRES LECHES
A vanilla sponge cake drenched in three "milks": normal milk, condensed milk, and a kind of caramel milk. Ridiculously, hurt-your-teeth sweet.

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CARTAGENA CAFES: FREE WIFI

28/8/2013

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These spots are selected for their convenience, reliability of their wi-fi, the strength of the air-conditioning, the value or desirability of their food/drink offerings and their general ambiance.

To be on the safe side.. Ask if the wifi is working before ordering..



JUAN VALDEZ The thirteen locations of this coffee house are favored by ex-pats and locals alike who get their daily dose of caffeine and internet connection in its highly cooled environment.

ELY Sinfully good chocolate brownies, pretty interior design, usually good wifi, very chilled and quiet workspace.
Getsemani, Calle Larga opposite Getsemani Centro Comercial

MALAGANA Tasty plates, tastier drinks, mum-made chewy chocolate brownies, air-con and wi-fi. The only downside is that it's only open nights (and not on Sundays), but this is the perfect time to order a signature corozo margarita to down while you download.
Getsemani, Calle Tripita y Media

COOPERACION ESPANOLA Enter the historic courtyard of the converted church and go to the library.. it's airconditioned and there's desks and wi-fi and a shhhushhing librarian and a section with children's books that are good for practicing your basic level Spanish. And you don't need to spend a pesito.
Centro, Plaza Santo Domingo

EL BALCON The friendly folk at El Balcon make their bar/cafe/restaurant feel like a home away from home and they won't mind if you while away an hour or so at one of their inside tables or perched on the balcony watching the world go by.
Centro/San Diego, Plaza San Diego

GOKELA This Bocagrande beauty does fresh and healthy better than anyone in Cartagena (and probably Colombia).. the wi-fi and air-con are pumping so you can breeze through your business.
Bocagrande, Cra 3 (in front of La Mansion)

CARIBE PLAZA FOOD COURT Needing a break from shopping? You can grab one of the many tables in the Caribe Plaza food court and use their free wi-fi without buying anything. The downside is it can get fairly noisy depending on the time of day. But FREEEEEEE
Pie de la Popa, Caribe Plaza

ABACO I just love being surrounded by books and timber.. there's something so comforting and satisfying about it. Add in good coffee and free wifi and Abaco is a wi-fi winner.
Centro, Calle Gastebondo

ALIANZA FRANCESA Say oui to wi-fi in the delightful french-styled cafe of Alianza Francesa. Then just TRY to say non to their tempting array of desserts.
Centro/San Diego, Parque Fernandez Madrid

ISABELLAS Another multi-site coffee place (Mall Plaza, Bocagrande etc) that does good coffee, wi-fi and air-con.. there's always plenty of tables so you don't feel like a terrible tightarse if you spend the entire day internetting.
Bocagrande, Avenida San Martin; El Castillo, Mall Plaza










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CARTAGENA RESTAURANTS: THE BEST

23/8/2013

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So.. the plan is that I eventually write longer reviews of each of these places. Also that I update this top 10.. whenever I visit a new worthy inclusion. But to begin.. it will be a list. They won't be any particular order. Stay tuned. (The * is the nearest site or plaza so you can ask directions easily)



LA PERLA Peruvian fusion in fresh-feeling space with killer pisco sours.
Calle de Ayos, Centro Historico (*Cathedral)

TABETAI World class sushi, small and funky interior.
Calle Segunda de Badillo, Centro Historico (*Parque Fernandez Madrid)

MAREA by RAUSCH
Divine views thanks to waterside location - seafood specialists. Save space for dessert!
Centro Convenciones, Getsemani (*Convention Centre)

DON JUAN Deserved recipient of most people's "best restaurant in Cartagena" tag. An emphasis on treating quality ingredients simply with a largely Basque cooking style. Decor is polished bistro. Calle Colegio, Centro Historico (*Gobernacion building)

ANDANTE ALLEGRO VIVACE Fresher-than-fresh homemade pastas, and flavor-focused Italian classics in a tiny, romantic locale.
Calle de la Mantilla (*Plaza Santo Domingo)

MARIA Gorgeous interior design, mega-appealing menu and perfect for (beautiful) people watching. Cocktail list is just as enticing.
Calle Colegio, Centro Historico (*Gobernacion building)

CUZCO Tranquil surrounds, amazing ceviche, excellent staff, live music Thurs-Sun.
Calle Santo Domingo, Centro Historico  (*Plaza Santa Domingo)

DI SILVIO TRATTORIA Some of the best pizza you will eat in your life, served with life music Thurs-Sun inside a roof-less ruined shell of a historic building.
Calle de la Sierpe, Getsemani (*Plaza Trinidad)

KARIB A great way to sample local Cartagenan and Colombian flavours thanks to their 100gram "tapas" menu. The food and service and prices are great.. but sometimes you'll find yourselves as the only people in the restaurant.. which can affect the overall vibe.
Calle Larga, Getsemani (*Hotel Arsenal)

M COCINA Mmm.. a favourite amongst the host of Lebanese restaurants in Cartagena. Welcome to flavour-town. Bocagrande, Calle 6 (*Supermarket Olimpica 24h)

EL BOLICHE CEBICHERIA
Getting props in all the right places.. this tiny space delivers amazing plates of mega freshness and flavour.
Calle Cochera del Hobo, San Diego/Centro Historico (*Parque Fernandez Madrid)



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CARTAGENA NIGHTLIFE: SALSA BARS

13/8/2013

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Feeling saucy? Cartagena's just the spot to get your salsa on! The sounds of salsa fill the summery nights here, inviting you to swivel those hips and move those feet.. There's a range of options to sate, from simple corner bars that will be playing a selection from the genre's greatest hits playbook; famed and traditional salsa bars where expert dancers strut their stuff; bars and clubs with live bands through to more intimate spaces for romantic swaying. And that's just in Centro! If you want to REALLY dance salsa and experience some of that local Cartagena flavour I keep harping on about, you need to head out to the neighbourhood salsa clubs. Here's a list of some of the best salsa options in Cartagena - and remember you can always book in a salsa dance lesson or two to learn the basics or refresh what you already know.

QUIEBRA CANTO

DONDE FIDEL

HAVANA CAFE

CASA DE HABANA

CACHAO

EL CORO

COLOMBIA CARIBE

LOS ULTIMOS MOJICOS

PLATANAL

EL VUELTO

SAFARI

EL YORK


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    A collection of musings, insights and experiences gathered by an energetic and enthusiastic Australian girl loving life in Cartagena, Colombia.

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