With nights that seem impossible to end early and a contagious vacation vibe, Cartagena seems made for lazy starts and long brunches. Oddly however, the brunch scene here has until recently been fairly lacking. The fact that Cartagena already created breakfast perfection with the invention of the ubiquitous “Arepa ‘e Huevo” might have had something to do with it? For those of you who, like me, consider brunch to be the most pleasurable way to start the day/combat hangovers/delay reality, fear not! I am delighted to report we are seeing a host of restaurants and cafés brunching out (pun intended) into the realm of champagne-spiked breakfasts.

Here’s the best of the brunch:

EL BARÓN
My fave. So good and always consistent. These guys are perfectionists and if they are going to do brunch, believe they will do it right. El Barón consists of 3 related, but slightly distinct ambiental zones - 1) the outdoor terrace facing the stunning San Pedro Church and people-watching-perfect plaza; 2) inside the intimate bar space of El Baron Bar and now 3) the charming Colette bar space, featuring live music and invited DJs on weekends. Breakfast is available weekdays 8am-midday. On weekends, this converts to an all-day brunch (8am to 4pm) with a more party-music-brunchy vibe in the Colette Bar section.  The menu features pretty much everything you want at brunch - bottomless mimosas and cocktail specials, smoked salmon bagels, the delicious chicharron pork belly with cheesy arepa, green juice to mitigate your sins, a bread basket because holiday carbs don't count (right?!). Reservations are recommended, especially if you are in the mood to party and want the Colette section (weekends). Send a whatsapp message to +57 315 646 3018 and please name drop "Cartagena Connections" or " Kristy" so they shout us a drink next time we're there. 

PASTELERIA MILA
When Mimosas in Cartagena were barely a mythical whisper from those fortunate-enough to have ventured overseas, Pasteleria Mila was pioneering their cause. The home of the original Cartagena brunch, Mila still remains one of the city’s best; thanks to an enormous selection of scrumptious sweet and savoury offerings, gorgeous French-farmhouse ambience and those aforementioned Mimosas. If you can make it out without ordering “breakfast dessert” from the ridiculously tempting window displays, you’re a better man than I am.

TRY: Colombia’s unusual sweet/salty combo of hot chocolate and melted cheese.

Brunch from 8am Monday - Saturday and from 10am Sunday
www.pasteleriamila.com

CAFFÉ LUNATICO
Cute and quirky, Caffe Lunatico has quickly won the hearts of Cartagena’s brunch bunch with beautifully presented breakfast plates that taste as good as they look. Wash them down with all-day jugs of Sangria, or on Sundays, why not sign up for bottomless Mimosas? Because, as they say, brunch without champagne, is really just a sad breakfast.

TRY: Broken eggs with yuca or Cartagena’s (and potentially the World’s) best French Toast
Brunch 11am- 3pm every day.
@caffelunatico

OH LA LA
Take a beautifully restored high-ceilinged, light-filled Getsemani house with an incredible past, add soul-pleasing food and lashings of French-finesse and you have one of our favourite breakfast destinations. Think homebaked bread with real butter, homemade jams, granola and yogurts, toulouse sausage, decadently creamy omelettes, still-warm bollo served with the best suero you'll try (local delicacy).. all lovingly prepared and beautifully presented (like, really beautifully, in that, must upload to instagram immediately, kind of way).. trust us, you'll be charmed to bits too. 

Breakfast 8am-1pm Monday -  Saturday (Also great for lunch, or early dinner)
Found on Calle Larga, near the corner of Calle Vargas close to Cocina de Pepina​

EL BISTRO
Chef and foodie favourite, El Bistro, does a weekly Sunday brunch that places traditional Caribbean cuisine front and centre for a breakfast unlike anything you will try at home. Featuring elevated local classics such as arepa de huevo with smoked trout, chorizo empanadas, and fish Sancocho; your guayabo (slang for hangover) will be a distant memory thanks to this restorative fare.

TRY: Empanadas stuffed with seafood casserole and the amazing selection of German-baked breads

Breakfast Monday - Saturday 9am -1pm; Sunday Caribeño Brunch 10am- 4pm
www.el-bistro.com
COVID CASUALITY


Brunch 7am-1pm Monday to Saturday
Calle Larga  corner of Callejon Vargas (around the corner from Cocina de Pepina)

CAFE DE LA MAÑANA
Now in new, super central digs right in front of the Casa de la Presentación Art Gallery (top tip: check out the art exhibits after breakfast), our favourite German and Colombian duo, Jan and Naty are bringing their hearty, made-with-love, good valued breakfasts to a new public and everyone's happy about it.

TRY: Typical Colombian breakfast of eggs, arepa, coffee, fruit salad and OJ all for 18,500 pesos.

Breakfast Monday - Saturday 8am onwards
Sunday 9.30am - 4pm
Calle Estanco del aguardiente

CAFE ÉPOCA
Café Epoca is for people who choose their brunch based on the calibre of the coffee. Roasted in-house from the best of Colombia’s beans, this could be the very best cup in Cartagena. It’s not just coffee-snobs who will be satisfied; the food menu reads like a brunching all stars and definitely doesn’t disappoint in the delivery.

TRY: It’s hard to beat creamy avocado smashed on toast, right?

Brunch from 9am daily
@weare.epoca

CREPES & WAFFLES
For visitors it might be hard to accept that a restaurant that seems from the surface just to be a run-of-the-mill chain, is somehow capable of commanding the unfaltering devotion of an entire population. Yet this is exactly the power of the almighty Crepes & Waffles. Basically, if you live in Colombia, you will most probably eat here at least once a week, every week, for your entire lives. And then, on Sundays, it’s brunch time, baby. Mompox mozzarella, bread baskets, all the eggs, mimosas and nutella/banana crepes. There’s definitely worse ways to become a household name.

TRY: Baked Lebanese eggs, guanabana smoothie.

Sunday Brunch from 10am
www.crepesywaffles.com.co

EATING THE STREET IN CARTAGENA

Whether you are chasing a stopover snack or something more substantial, a healthy start or a sweet denouement, Cartagena’s streets provide! Eating the street is a way to plug into the local culture and gain insight into the daily lives, as you enjoy food the way Cartageneros do. It’s also extremely tasty. So arm yourselves with an appetite and an adventurous attitude and go explore. Here’s some street treats to look out for:

Arepa e’ huevo - Probably the most iconic Cartagena street snack, the arepa e’huevo is a twice-fried golden circular cornmeal parcel filled with egg and meat. Must try.

Carimañola - Made from the sticky yuca dough, Carimañolas can be stuffed with meat or cheese before frying.

Papa Rellena - Yet another deep-fried delight, the Papa Rellena (literally translated as “stuffed potato”) is cooked potato balls with meat, onions and spiced dipped into a batter, then fried until crunchy.

Kibbeh - Another fried treat, the kibbeh is a tasty legacy of the Arabic immigration to Cartagena. It’s made from bulgar wheat, finely ground beef, onions and spices.

Mango biche - Cartageneros love their mango green (unripe), crunchy, and doused in lime juice, salt and pepper. Mango biche is also the renowned preferred craving food for pregnant women. Now you know.

Bollos - These leaf-wrapped rolls are similar to a Mexican tamale and are made by steaming cornmeal, plantains, yuca, coconut, or any other kind of masa inside a bijao leaf. They are then usually enjoyed with a few chunks of the local cheese: queso costeño. They can also be sometimes found,stuffed with meat and vegetables.

Patacones - twice-fried plantains are pisa’o (flattened) dipped in salty, garlic water and topped with cheese, meat, salad, sauces, or simply enjoyed on their own.

Pesca’o - You’ll hear this food before you see it. Listen out for the men walking the streets with their giant silver buckets calling out “Pesca’o Pesca’o!!” What you’ll receive is a piece of salty fried fish accompanied by salty steamed yuca and wrapped up in a piece of brown paper.

Coctél de Camaron - If you thought the famous shrimp coctkail died after the 80s, think again! In Cartagena cups filled with a mix of shrimp, onion, tomato, mayo and lots of garlic can be found all along Avenida Venezuela. You can even eat it under a giant Sombrero Vuelta’o hat!

Tropical fruits - Depending on the season, you can find all manner of strange and exotic tropical fruits like lulo, granadilla, nispero, papaya, guanabana, corozo, guama, zapote etc Some can be eaten there and then, others are better mixed into a juice.

Postres Palenqueros - Look out for the ladies in beautiful coloured dresses carrying bowls on their head often the treasures they are transporting are an array of traditional sweets such as cocadas (coconut mounds) enyucado (coconut and yuca cake) bolitas de tamarindo (sugar-coated tamarind balls) and alegría (puffed corn brown-sugar and coconut balls).

Agua e Coco - Known as natures energy drink, you can order the coconut whole, or drink the water en bolsita, ripping open the tiny plastic bags with your teeth.

Salpicón - This colourful, sweet cup is kind of like a drinkable fruit-salad laced with lots of sugar.

Raspa’o - Cartagena’s version of the snow cone, Raspaó is shaved ice topped with flavoured syrup. Popular flavours include tamarindo and Kola Roman.

Tinto - Need an energy boost with all this eating? Never fea! A tiny cup of caffeine is always close at hand thanks to the roaming tinto salesmen. Look for the men carrying thermoses and cigarettes. The coffee usually comes pre-sweetened and is usually, surprisingly, extremely hot.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN EXPLORING THE WORLD OF STREETFOOD IN CARTAGENA BOOK INTO ONE OF OUR FOOD + CULTURE TOURS OR REQUEST IT AS PART OF YOUR PRIVATE TOUR.

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With uber talented chefs, a bounty of incredible ingredients and a strong tourist dollar stimulating competition, in Cartagena there are no shortage of quality international eating options vying for attention. But if you’re the type of traveller that feels savouring the local gastronomic delights is an essential part of the experience - these are some of the home-grown typical dishes that should be high on your must-try list.*

CEVICHE + COCTEL

Whilst it’s the Peruvians who mostly claim credit for the culinary blessing that is ceviche, the dish also has Colombian origins, with indigenous groups using local fruits to “cook” and preserve fish and seafood since waaaay back in the day. Upon settling, the Spanish combined this local method with their own popular dish of escabeche, and Cartagena has been enjoying the results ever since. The typical ceviche is prepared by marinating the raw fish/seafood in citrus (like lime) or fruit (like tamarind or mango) until “cooked” by the acidic juices. Herbs, toasted corn, peppers, onions and other spices can also be combined to create a variety of different versions. Similar concept, but with different execution, the coctél de camaron is a kind-of kickback to the seventies when the beloved shrimp cocktail was the height of fine-dining. In this case the pre-cooked seafood is mixed with tomato sauce, mayo and heap of garlic, and offered from beaches to roadside to restaurants all over the city.
Try it at (gosh I need a separate best of ceviche list!!)
Laguna Azul
Malagana
La Cevicheria
Alquimico
La Mulata
El Boliche
El Gramo
Cuzco
La Perla
Sombrero Vueltiao (look for the giant striped hat for the best streetside shrimp cocktail)


ARROZ APASTELA’O (PASTEL)

A specialty of the Caribbean Coast, this rice dish is prepared with the meat and stock of chicken or pork, vegetables like beans, carrots and peas, olives, capers and yellow achiote then wrapped up in a green bijao leaf and steamed. The result is a convenient parcel of moist deliciousness that can be unwrapped and enjoyed wherever you fancy.
Try it at
Your neighbourhood window in Getsemani (especially December 26-30)
Narcobollo (Manga)
Ohlala
Candé


BANDEJA COSTEÑA

The typical plate from the coast, this dish consists of a whole fried fish (mojarra or pargo are most common), golden patacon (fried green plantain) and the revelation that is coconut rice (seriously, so good). If you’re lucky you’ll get a bowl of taste-the-ocean fish soup on the side. For maximum enjoyment, eat using your hands while your toes are in the sand and with a champeta musical soundtrack.
Try it at
La Perla Negra (La Boquilla)
Kiosko Bony (Bocagrande)
Espiritu Santo
La Mulata
Candé
Narcobollo (Manga)


SOPA DE HIGADETE
This can be a bit harder to find, but this traditional soup made with sweet ripe plantain, beef liver and coconut milk is a taste sensation.
Try it at
Candé Restaurant
The home of someone's grandma

MOTE DE QUESO
Another main-meal soup, this plate is especially popular at Easter because it is completely meat-free (making it a great choice for vegetarians). It is prepared by cooking ñame (a root vegetable similar to potato) with salty cheese (queso costeño) and lots of onion. Cheesy soup? Yes, please.
Try it at 
Quero Arepa
Espiritu Santo
Cocina de Pepina


CAZUELA DE MARISCOS
Back when the Spanish first arrived, finding a land devoid of olive oil and chickpeas they had to improvise. The delicious result is this super rich casserole chock-full of seafood and cooked in a creamy-coconut sauce.

Try it at
Casa Socorro
Candé
Cocina de Pepina
La Mulata
Marea by Rausch


*for the sake of space this list is focused on main plates. We’ll save snacks and desserts for another time.

Cartagena boasts a multitude of Arabic-cuisined restaurants thanks to the immigrants from Syria, Lebanon etc who brought their aromatic recipes with them when they moved here and started building their trade-based business empires [food plus history lesson in one overly-long sentence. whoop].

I totally want to try them all! So far, however, I've only tried M Cocina. And it's good!

My last visit was a girly lunch date with one of my favourite Cartageneras and she advised me that M Cocina was the best Arabic food in Cartagena. Which is all the endorsement I need.

Following her lead I ordered a deeeeelicious guanabana and mint (hierbabuena) juice which was all icy and granizado-like and so frickin good. I actually think it was the highlight of the entire lunch. Here's a photo.

Mmmmm....

Because I wanted to try as much as possible and because I am generally greedy, we got a mixed plate to share for the starter. It had tasty chicken and toasted almond rice, some vine leaf wraps, tabbouleh, felafel, kibbeh, and a meaty empanada. You can see it in the top photo. Everything was really flavoursome but I liked the kibbeh the best. By the time the plate was finished, we were pretty much full.. but then our meat arrived..

D loves her a steak, so she ordered the lomo, which came with a herby butter and a choice of potatoes (she chose puree) and a salad. I nabbed a chunk and it was yeah-baby good with a nicely seasoned meat-crust. This is it:

When I choose from a menu, I have an ordering hierarchy which, in addition to favoring anything pig-derived, includes a general philosophy that I should order things that I wouldn't cook at home. Which is why I ordered the Kibbeh crudo (it's like an arabic-style beef tatare i.e. seasoned raw meat). Look how pretty it is:

It came just like this. No other side. So by the end (and yes, despite being full when I started eating it.. I did definitely finish it) I was craving something to re-fresh the palate a bit more. I even ate the decorative and usually annoying parsley because I was so desperate for the green. But flavour-fatigue aside, I really enjoyed. And it's definitely not something I feel brave enough to prepare at home.

By now we were so full we could barely stand up straight, so we didn't even look at the dessert menu which apparently contains such Middle Eastern wonders as baklava and rose-water scented sweets.

Like most of the Arabic restaurants in Cartagena, M Cocina is found in Bocagrande. The interior design is fiiiiiine, white and nice but nothing I need to elaborate on, save to confirm that yes, there is air conditioning.

Definitely recommended. Definitely order the Guanabana and mint juice.

It's currently May here in Cartagena and there's a whole new batch of tropical fruit loading up the vendors' carts. The mamoncillo is a particular fave. You'll find the branches of firm green balls tied together with string. They cost about 1,000 pesos or 50cents for a decent-sized bag. To eat, crack the middle of the shell-like skin open using your teeth or nails (or a knife if you're that way inclined). The top "lid" will slide off and you'll be able to suck out the tangy fruit inside. Apparently the juice of the mamoncillo can temporarily stain your skin and clothes.. but I haven't experienced any problems using the above technique. It kindof resembles a lychee or longan. Before I knew what this fruit was called, I christened it Fruity Gobstopper because you need to suck the tangy, creamy fruity goodness away from the giant seed inside, giving you that gobstopper-like bulge in your cheek while you do. A single mamoncillo can last you for an hour! As far as I know, "mamon" is another word for "suck" (be very careful using this word in polite company), so fruity gobstopper seems totally apt.

I usually live on a very tight budget here in Cartagena. If I can't cook at home, I don't like to spend more than 10,000COP (US$5.50) for a meal. These are places I like to eat for cheap. It is possible to eat at all of them for less than 12,000. Apologies now for the sometimes approximate addresses and the fact the list is biased towards Getsemani and La Matuna because that's where I live and work. Please send me your tips and recs for cheap eating in other parts of town (add them to the comments section - that would be rad)!!

Este es el Punto, Getsemani, Calle San Andres
Pretty basic but very acceptable. I think their best dishes are the guisadas (a kind of casserole). This place is especially popular during the p.m. because they are one of the few restaurants that do night-time corrientes at around the 6,000 COP price-point. The crowd is pretty much 50/50 backpackers and locals filling up on the cheap fare.

Street Lunches in La Matuna La Matuna, Near the Olimpica
At just 4,000 pesos, this is one of the cheapest lunches going and really tasty. You'll find the food cart set up in front of the Europa Pool Hall in the Joe Arroyo Mall in La Matuna Commercial area. You'll get a generous serve of whatever meat you choose (all that I've tried are slow-cooked tender and flavoursome with plenty of spices), rice, lentils, salad and cooked banana. I am always the only female that eats here. I sit on the concrete bench with all the old men and joke with them while chewing the (literal) fat.

Fruit Salad La Matuna, near Hotel Stil
Also in La Matuna, but in the neighbouring Plaza of Benko (formerly Plazaleta de Telecom) near the Hotel Stil, you'll find a mobile fruit salad cart. For 2,000 pesos, they will cut up and choc-fill a polystyrene container (sorry environment) with an assortment of watermelon, papaya, pineapple, grapes and banana. I think it's excellent value. You can also talk them down to a 1,000 half-serve that is pretty darn filling.

Ciudad Movil Pizza Getsemani, Calle Espiritu Santo
You'll hear me sing the praises of Ciudad Movil for a number of reasons. As the home of zumba, as a great place to catch live music, as a community centre to support Getsemani, as a place to learn and grow and upskill with dance and artistic lessons. But probably my favourite thing I love about Ciudad Movil is the pretty courtyard and the tasty pizzas they serve there. The pizzas are 10,000 for 1/2 size and 15,000 for full. The base is crispy and light. The toppings are delicious and simple. Here's a couple of photos.

Osteria de Sirena
It's retro as all get-up but sometimes I get a craving for the prawn (shrimp to those outside Australia) cocktails sold in the little food huts around La Matuna. The one I always go to is La Sirena. I am not sure why exactly, but Walter happily adds lots of extra garlic and chili because that's how I like it. He also seems to be generous with the prawns (shrimp) but that could just be luck/my imagination. Realistically all the different vendors are probably pretty much the same (the one with the giant Colombia vueltiado hat is particularly popular). Anyway.. if you are craving something that isn't carb/starch heavy.. this could fit the bill. I always get the doble (the, ahem.. double) which has just increased in price to 9,000COP. It isn't hugely filling but the richness of the prawns and the mayonnaise means you don't need a lot to feel sated.

Laguna Azul Centro Commercial Getsemani, Calle Larga (in front of Donde Pacho).
Another non-carby option, Laguna Azul specialises in ceviches. I like it because the ceviches are real ceviches in the sense that they are not filled with cream and tomato sauce and mayonnaise, but the raw seafood is “cooked” in the acidic citrus-based dressing. If you haven't tried ceviche before you really, really should. It is fresh and zesty and clean tasting. And you don't feel all gluggy and heavy afterwards. I normally get the Corvina which is around 12,000 pesos - a little above budget - but vale la pena. And the Blue Lagoon/Brooke Shields kitch-ness of t the restaurant is all nostalgic cool. Photos!

Crepes & Waffles Salad Bar Various. Visit http://crepesywaffles.com/
The only thing I ever order at Crepes and Waffles (not counting the ice-creams) is the salad bar. You are allowed to fill a large bowl or take-away container with as much salad bar that will fit for 8,000 pesos. Considering the general lack of vegetables and diverse salad options in Cartagena, this is a really great deal. Add in free wi-fi and Crepes and Waffles is a favourite ex-pat meet-point. Oh! And we all love the Crepes & Waffles policy of only employing single mothers - it makes the ice-cream taste sweeter.

La Orquidea La Matuna, Avenida Venezuela
Pull up a seat under the amazing giant fig tree and enjoy, al fresco, a big chunk of barbequed meat, served on a wooden platter. There's a distinct Cartagena-vibe here – music blares and your neighbouring tables will be filled with men enjoying cervezas and talking mierda. They also have a good rotating selection of soups (often including Mote de Queso) on the menu. Don't leave it too late to arrive. The food is served 12-2. The rest of the time is strictly for drinking. Top tip: If you still have room after your churrasco, go behind the tienda to the little stall frying up golden balls and try the best buñuelo in Cartagena.

Pardesh Indian Restaurant Getsemani, Calle Tripita y Media
A lot has changed since I tried my first truly spicy food in Indonesia when I was 12 and proceeded to run around the restaurant flapping my arms and downing everyone else's drinks. Now I crave spicier and spicier food - rarely finding any dishes that are hot enough for me. For this reason, Pardesh is an absolute godsend. Bangladeshi chef, Milton, serves up properly authentic curries that are genuinely spicy if you want them that way. He also cooks with actual vegetables! I usually order the Fish Marsala (COP$12,000) because it's super tasty and makes me feel that, even though I'm eating in an Indian Restaurant.. I'm still keeping things a little coastal and local. The vegetable curries (COP9,000) and dahl are first rate options for vegetarians and people craving some non-meaty vitamins and minerals for a change (often, me). The dipping sauce that comes with the onion fritters is a complete winner (the fritters aren't bad either). Oh! and the prawn/shrimp dopiaza (COP12,000) is delish. The other thing I love about Pardesh is the fact you can BYO (is this just an Aussie term? It means Bring Your Own drinks). So stop off at a tienda on the way and grab some beers or something stronger and save even more money on your night out. It's the perfect place to "pre".
There's almost ZERO atmosphere at Pardesh, however (those paintings of the Virgin Mary and complete absence of music just don't cut it), so you need to bring your own good-vibes too. I suggest a portable music player and a bottle of rum should help with that.
We call Pardesh a "pop-up-restaurant" because (a) it pops up only at night in a space that, by day is a restaurant called Cassova, situated opposite Malagana and (b) it makes the restaurant seem more hip and happening, right? Anyway. One of my favourite cheap restaurant options.

Sunday Mondongo Soup Getsemani, Plaza Trinidad
Sunday is a time for restoration and reflection, and a bowl of mondongo soup is a traditional answer for both. The main ingredient of Mondongo soup is tripe. Yup. Cow's stomache lining. For this reason it is a popular choice after a night out drinking and misbehaving as it is believed the fatty tripe helps soak up all the booze.. it's the coastal equivalent of McDonalds (and slightly better for you than the other greasy alternative.. Chicharones!). Every Sunday you can sample homemade Mondongo soup in Trinidad Plaza in Getsemani. Sitting in the shade, people-watching, sharing battle-stories from debaucherous adventures.. it's the perfect way to lick your wounds. Bowl of Mondongo soup with rice and panela costs COP5000.

Como es? Luxe feeling water-side restaurant specialising in seafood
Donde es? Centro de Convenciones Cartagena de Indias, ph 6544205
Cuanto es? Treat [entrees ~25,000COP mains 35,000-55,000 desserts ~15,000COP
Cerca a? Convention Centre






For those times you want to have a special meal (especially seafood), in special surrounds, with special service, Marea by Rausch is a tops selection.

Found within the Convention Centre, the restaurant has a killer location right beside the water of the Bahia de Animas with enviable views of the historic centre and the impressive San Pedro de Claver dome. I also love the interior design. The colour-scheme is all teales and aquamarines with walls filled with an intricate-looking fish patterned wall paper. Except it's not wallpaper. Those fish were actually all drawn onto the wall by hand using a Sharpie pen. Cool, huh? The white and silver accents (chairs, chandeliers) keeps things fresh and seaside resort-y but still luxe and special.   Cue photo.

Ok, so right, the food. It's really good. I've found a lot of restaurants in Cartagena have a tendency to overcook seafood. Actually, food generally.. but especially seafood. Not so here. In fact many of the best dishes are raw - tiradito, ceviche, tatare, carpaccio etc which is completely to my tastes.

I also think the prices are really reasonable given the quality. I'll whack up some photos now of some of the plates I tried with the prices.

To the left is the tuna tartare. Really tasty with toasted sesame seed oil. Those giant yellow things are crisp fried ripe plantains. Yum. So this costs 24,900 COP (google is telling me that's about US$13.50). On the right is the octopus carpaccio. Those little coloured dollops are 1. black olive sauce 2. green olive sauce 3. artichoke puree. This was also super fresh tasting. It cost the same price at the tuna tartare.

For mains I was able to try a mixed seafood rice stew called a Caldoso (top image). The flavours of this were nice and robust, although the calamari was maybe overcooked just a tad. The dish is totally packed with seafood and costs 39,000COP (US$21.35). The other main we sampled was the traditional Cartagena plate: mojarra frita (37,900COP/ US$20.75). This is the dish that is most representative of Cartagena and you will see variations of it served in every restaurant and on every stretch of sand. So how does Marea make it special whilst still keeping it traditional? Well for starters the produce is mega fresh, the execution is excellent and the flavours and balanced well. But the thing that really blew my mind was the fact that they serve this whole fried fish, magically, without bones! It's like the fish of the future! Just cut in, carve it up and enjoy. I'm not sure if this is a common thing or not, but I was definitely impressed.

So the "Rausch" in the restaurant name, Marea by Rausch, refers to the Rausch Brothers, Colombian celebrity chefs who are just as famous for their top-ranking Criterion Restaurant in Bogota, as they are for "selling out" and creating some menu items for McDonalds. Anyway, they make a great pair because one brother is all about the savoury and the other specialises in pastry and desserts. As a result, the meals at Marea are accompanied by really, really nice bread. And the desserts are spectacular. Look!

So the special dessert sampler platter for 2 is yours for 22,900COP (US$12.54) and the deep dark chocolatey awesomeness of the fondant (oh yeah.. that middle was perfectly runny and gooey) is 16,900COP/US$9.25. Actually, I think it might be really nice to come back to Marea sometime with a pack of girlfriends and calorific intentions and just split dessert.

Service is really good and professional at Rausch, but the times I've been, English wasn't really spoken and the English menu wasn't ready. Not sure if that's a major point for other people but thought it was worth mentioning.

Ambience: the times I've been, the restaurant has been fairly empty. Again, this doesn't really bother me, but if you feel a restaurant needs to buzz to feel right.. this one is more chilled elegance.

Hmm.. I think I kindof got carried away here - apologies for the essay of a description! Overall: Marea by Rausch is really good and highly recommended for a special treat.

This is a Granadilla. It looks like a yellow passionfruit. But it's not. Same family though. The granadilla is less tangy and more sweet and somehow sherbet-y. Popping each of the little pips in between your teeth is like bubble-wrap for your mouth! They have no bitterness at all and it is highly satisfying. The seeds and pulp live inside a white fibrous sack that you tear apart to access the sweet goodness. The outside skin is kindof crisp and cracks like an eggshell when you tap it into, say, your head.

These are one of my most favourite of the myriad of tropical fruits available in Cartagena. Whilst they don't tend to be sold by the street fruit vendors, you'll find them at almost any supermarket (exito, olimpica, carrefour etc) at around 4,000 COP/kilo.

Now, here's some virtual bubble wrap for you to play with!

Como es? Good valued corrientazo that's a step up from the standard fare
Donde es? Getsemani, Plaza de la Trinidad 9-111, Cartagena, Bolivar
Cuanto es? Cheap <$15,000
Cerca a? Plaza de la Trinidad





Located right on the much-beloved Plaza Trinidad in Getsemani, this is a great little spot for a corrientazo lunch that offers a little extra than the standard fare.

Sometimes, for example, they will have potato salad or borronjil (a kind of eggplant/platano smush) as a side. And instead of panela for your included drink, you might get lucky and arrive on the day they have watermelon juice.

There's a good range of mainly-meaty options that rotate frequently and sometimes get a bit adventurous. Most of the standard meats-based options are COP7000, but if you opt for the fish filete you'll pay 10,000COP. It's totally worth it. You'll receive a giant portion of fish fillet, battered in a salt and pepper spiced mix and shallow-fried to produce something that kind of reminds me of Cantonese style flounder. Which is to say it's very good. Plus it comes served with coconut rice- a coastal speciality and totally delicious.

Even the soup options vary (fish, triseca, hueso, pollo, patacones) and you might even be lucky enough to get mote de queso – a rich yam-based soup with chunks of cheese that's a speciality of the Atlantic Coast.

At night, the pizza oven gets cranked up, street tables and chairs come out and the cafe gets busy churning out light and crispy pizzas to the hungry plaza folk. They do pastas and burgers too, but I've only ever tried the pizza. Depending upon the toppings you choose, you can get a fairly giant pizza that would feed 2-3 people for around 14,000COP. I add my own dried chilli flakes to up the ante a little.