When I first arrived to Cartagena, I was on a very tight budget. If I couldn't cook at home, I didn't like to spend more than pesos equivalent (US$5) for a meal. These are places I like to eat for cheap. Apologies now for the sometimes approximate addresses and the fact the list is biased towards Getsemani and La Matuna because that's where I live and work. Please send me your tips and recs for cheap eating in other parts of town (add them to the comments section - that would be rad)!!

Restaurante 1596, San Diego, Calle de la Moneda
This delightful restaurant has quickly moved into my number 1 spot for lunch time corrientes. The restaurant is found in a historic house with open air courtyard and air-conditioned dining room. It also has free wifi - win!! Then there's the food! Super flavoursome soup, a rotating mix of different-from-the-norm meat options with tasty sides (they vary depending upon the day but include casseroles, fish, fajitas etc) and they even bring out a little matrimonio (guava paste with cheese dessert) to finish on. 

Rincon del Antioqueno, Bocagrande, near the Olimpica
If you want to feel full without spending money (and you don't mind sacrificing your arteries in the process), Cartagena has the perfect option; fritos! This place makes amazing Kibbeh (the football-shaped Lebanese-originating spiced meatballs. There's also probably the best Pan de Bono in Cartagena. The usual suspects of Arepa de Huevo, Cariminola and Papas Rellenas are also done very well.

Este es el Punto, Getsemani, Calle San Andres
Pretty basic but very acceptable. I think their best dishes are the guisadas (a kind of casserole). This place is especially popular during the p.m. because they are one of the few restaurants that do night-time corrientes at around the 6,000 COP price-point. The crowd is pretty much 50/50 backpackers and locals filling up on the cheap fare.

Street Lunches in La Matuna La Matuna, Near the Olimpica
At just 4,000 pesos, this is one of the cheapest lunches going and really tasty. You'll find the food cart set up in front of the Europa Pool Hall in the Joe Arroyo Mall in La Matuna Commercial area. You'll get a generous serve of whatever meat you choose (all that I've tried are slow-cooked tender and flavoursome with plenty of spices), rice, lentils, salad and cooked banana. I am always the only female that eats here. I sit on the concrete bench with all the old men and joke with them while chewing the (literal) fat.

Fruit Salad La Matuna, near Hotel Stil
Also in La Matuna, but in the neighbouring Plaza Benko (formerly Plazaleta de Telecom) near the Hotel Stil, you'll find a mobile fruit salad cart. For 2,000 pesos, they will cut up and choc-fill a polystyrene container (sorry environment) with an assortment of watermelon, papaya, pineapple, grapes and banana. I think it's excellent value. You can also talk them down to a 1,000 half-serve that is pretty darn filling.

Esquina de Pan de Bono, Centro, Calle de San Agustin
Doing a roaring trade in keeping University students sated, this is my number 1 pick to sample the best in Cartagena's diverse array of tropical juices. They are cheap (around 2,500), freshly blended up and super refreshing during a hot day. The bakery also makes a very good version of the Pan de Bono (the tasty yucca, cheesy bread-roll that is strangely addictive) and this cheese and ham filled flaky pastry goodness that comes of the oven a thing of puffed up golden awesomeness and is then flattened into pizza-style triangles. Sneak your haul across to Juan Valdez and enjoy them in the air-conditined wifi wonderland. 

Ciudad Movil Pizza Getsemani, Calle Espiritu Santo - CLOSED

Laguna Azul Centro Commercial Getsemani, Calle Larga (in front of Donde Pacho).
Another non-carby option, Laguna Azul specialises in ceviches. I like it because the ceviches are real ceviches in the sense that they are not filled with cream and tomato sauce and mayonnaise, but the raw seafood is “cooked” in the acidic citrus-based dressing. If you haven't tried ceviche before you really, really should. It is fresh and zesty and clean tasting. And you don't feel all gluggy and heavy afterwards. I normally get the Corvina which is around 25,000 pesos - a little above budget - but vale la pena. And the Blue Lagoon/Brooke Shields kitch-ness of the restaurant is all nostalgic cool. You can also order inside Don Pacho and add a plate of shaved Jamon Photos!

Crepes & Waffles Salad Bar Various. Visit http://crepesywaffles.com/
This is the restaurant I eat at more than any other: and my most ordered dish (apart from the amazing ice creams) is the fill-you-own-bowl salad bar.  You are allowed to fill a large bowl or take-away container with as much salad bar that will fit. Considering the general lack of vegetables and diverse salad options in Cartagena, this is a really great deal. Add in free wi-fi and Crepes and Waffles is a favourite ex-pat meet-point. Oh! And we all love the Crepes & Waffles policy of only employing single mothers - it makes the ice-cream taste sweeter.

La Orquidea La Matuna, Avenida Venezuela
Pull up a seat under the amazing giant rubber tree (palito de caucho) and enjoy, al fresco, a big chunk of barbequed meat, served atop a pile of steamed yucca and salad on a wooden platter. The best part is the garlic sauce which will keep vampires and most of the non-garlic-eating population at bay for hours. Who wants to associate with their kind anyway? There's a distinct Cartagena-vibe here – music blares and your neighbouring tables will be filled with men enjoying cervezas and talking mierda. They also have a good rotating selection of soups (often including Mote de Queso) on the menu. Don't leave it too late to arrive. The food is served 12-2. The rest of the time is strictly for drinking. Top tip: If you still have room after your churrasco, go behind the tienda to the little stall frying up golden balls and try the best buñuelo in Cartagena.

Cafe de la Trinidad See review here.


Sunday Chicharones (and night-time fryspot), Manga, Puente Roman, next to Mimo Ice cream, in front of the Dentist.
These crunchy, salty, chewy, porky, fatty pieces of pig fat, still glistening with the oil from the fryer and sitting on top of a pile of yucca.. are so good, you'll wish you had a hangover to be able to fully appreciate them. They are only Sundays. Only from 8am-11ish am. The rest of the time, from 5pm-10pm this spot serves up the best cheesy carimonolas and papas rellenas in Cartagena.

Espiritu Santo Restaurante - Centro, Calle El Porvenir 35-60 
Consistently good food, huge servings, amazing juices. This is the place I take out-of-towners for lunch. It's cheap (but more expensive than my cheap favourites - more like 25,000 and up) but the surroundings are slightly more posh: there's waiters in uniforms and actual menus. It's also super popular with locals and there's always a buzzing atmosphere. There's always at least 4 or 5 fish options and the churasco is also very popular. 

Como es? Luxe feeling water-side restaurant specialising in seafood
Donde es? Centro de Convenciones Cartagena de Indias, ph 6544205
Cuanto es? Treat [entrees ~25,000COP mains 35,000-55,000 desserts ~15,000COP
Cerca a? Convention Centre






For those times you want to have a special meal (especially seafood), in special surrounds, with special service, Marea by Rausch is a tops selection.

Found within the Convention Centre, the restaurant has a killer location right beside the water of the Bahia de Animas with enviable views of the historic centre and the impressive San Pedro de Claver dome. I also love the interior design. The colour-scheme is all teales and aquamarines with walls filled with an intricate-looking fish patterned wall paper. Except it's not wallpaper. Those fish were actually all drawn onto the wall by hand using a Sharpie pen. Cool, huh? The white and silver accents (chairs, chandeliers) keeps things fresh and seaside resort-y but still luxe and special.   Cue photo.

Ok, so right, the food. It's really good. I've found a lot of restaurants in Cartagena have a tendency to overcook seafood. Actually, food generally.. but especially seafood. Not so here. In fact many of the best dishes are raw - tiradito, ceviche, tatare, carpaccio etc which is completely to my tastes.

I also think the prices are really reasonable given the quality. I'll whack up some photos now of some of the plates I tried with the prices.

To the left is the tuna tartare. Really tasty with toasted sesame seed oil. Those giant yellow things are crisp fried ripe plantains. Yum. So this costs 24,900 COP (google is telling me that's about US$13.50). On the right is the octopus carpaccio. Those little coloured dollops are 1. black olive sauce 2. green olive sauce 3. artichoke puree. This was also super fresh tasting. It cost the same price at the tuna tartare.

For mains I was able to try a mixed seafood rice stew called a Caldoso (top image). The flavours of this were nice and robust, although the calamari was maybe overcooked just a tad. The dish is totally packed with seafood and costs 39,000COP (US$21.35). The other main we sampled was the traditional Cartagena plate: mojarra frita (37,900COP/ US$20.75). This is the dish that is most representative of Cartagena and you will see variations of it served in every restaurant and on every stretch of sand. So how does Marea make it special whilst still keeping it traditional? Well for starters the produce is mega fresh, the execution is excellent and the flavours and balanced well. But the thing that really blew my mind was the fact that they serve this whole fried fish, magically, without bones! It's like the fish of the future! Just cut in, carve it up and enjoy. I'm not sure if this is a common thing or not, but I was definitely impressed.

So the "Rausch" in the restaurant name, Marea by Rausch, refers to the Rausch Brothers, Colombian celebrity chefs who are just as famous for their top-ranking Criterion Restaurant in Bogota, as they are for "selling out" and creating some menu items for McDonalds. Anyway, they make a great pair because one brother is all about the savoury and the other specialises in pastry and desserts. As a result, the meals at Marea are accompanied by really, really nice bread. And the desserts are spectacular. Look!

So the special dessert sampler platter for 2 is yours for 22,900COP (US$12.54) and the deep dark chocolatey awesomeness of the fondant (oh yeah.. that middle was perfectly runny and gooey) is 16,900COP/US$9.25. Actually, I think it might be really nice to come back to Marea sometime with a pack of girlfriends and calorific intentions and just split dessert.

Service is really good and professional at Rausch, but the times I've been, English wasn't really spoken and the English menu wasn't ready. Not sure if that's a major point for other people but thought it was worth mentioning.

Ambience: the times I've been, the restaurant has been fairly empty. Again, this doesn't really bother me, but if you feel a restaurant needs to buzz to feel right.. this one is more chilled elegance.

Hmm.. I think I kindof got carried away here - apologies for the essay of a description! Overall: Marea by Rausch is really good and highly recommended for a special treat.

When I give tours I often get asked the best place to go for a spa treatment. And my honest reply is that I've only ever been to the one place - the SoSpa at Sofitel Santa Clara. To say that I have always been satisfied is probably the biggest understatement of anyone in the history of the world ever.

The whole experience begins when you enter the luxury hotel, pass the crisply uniformed staff, make your way past the enORmous pool, try not to stare at all the hot brazilian women rocking their thong bikinis, climb the grand staircase and open the doors to the spa. It's cool. It's fresh. It smells like a combination of white florals and tropical fruits. Friendly people greet you. Yes. You think to yourself. This is going to be nice.

You fill in the form and hope no one sees you stuffing your face with the mountain of complimentary dark chocolate squares that fill giant glass vases on the tables. Ditto to the granadilla you crack open and eat. Those friendly people bring you a mint or lavendar infused cold compress and delicious fruity ice-tea served in pretty little cups. You're in bliss and you haven't so much as stuck a single foot into those complimentary white slippers, let alone started any treatments.

Depending upon the treatment you choose, you may also receive access to the pool, gym and turkish steam room as part of the experience. Don't pass this up! I would actually suggest making the appointment for the afternoon, and then spending the morning getting sweaty on the treadmill then in the steam room (they call  it a Hammam), showering in showers with actual hot water, sunning yourself by the pool, doing laps, and using the enormously large fluffy towels and high end toiletries. By the time the treatment actually happens you'll be in a state of total feel-good relaxation it wouldn't matter if the your massage was performed by a clod, it would still feel amazing.

But ofcourse, this being Cartagena's number 1 luxury hotel, the lovely people giving you your treatments are definitely not clods. They are very professional, experienced, smiley, sweet, gentle angels who aren't afraid to rip into your tensed-up muscles if that's what they need. All the Spa services you would expect from a five-star establishment are available: massages, exfoliation, full full-body wraps, pedicures, manicures, beauty etc etc Although most items on the treatment menu use expensive-feeling nature-derived products from Sisley (so nice!), there's also treatments that use the energising and anti-celulitis properties of Colombian coffee, and recently the Spa has developed an extremely special treatment that uses Colombian emeralds as the centrepiece of the treatment.

My first time to the Santa Clara SoSpa was to celebrate the birthday of my gorgeous friend, Tess. We were scaley, dirty, dry and damaged after months of travelling on a budget. The Spa day totally revived and renewed us. As we sat in the post-treatment tea room, clean and plumped by products, wrapped up in giant white towels and nibbling on almonds and walnuts drizzled with honey, we caught each other's eye and just started giggling at the incredible luxuriousness of it all.

Anyway, it all adds up to an amazing treat of an experience.

What's the damage?
I'm going to have to check this, but I think we chose 3 items from the spa menu - an entree (I think this can be a pedicure or maybe an exfoliation), a main (this can be a massage or facial maybe) and a dessert (maybe a wrap?), then we got to use the Hammam steam room, gym, pool, eat chocolates and nuts and fruit AND use the straightening iron in the bathroom all for around  310,000 COP (to be confirmed).

And I think the amazing Sisley 2-hour facials cost around 200,000 COP (again TBC).

These are some of my favourite ways to enjoy and experience Cartagena. I've tried to include things that are free or almost free that you probably won't find featured in your guide-book but are still accessible for visitors staying in and around Centro.

1. Sundowners
Find a spot on the centuries-old wall at sunset and take in the view. Anywhere is good, but my favourite places are sea-side at the Baluarte de San Francisco (near the Hotel Santa Teresa), "Cafe de al Lado" - the space "Next-door" to the famous, and also famously expensive, Cafe del Mar, or head to the wall that overlooks the India Catalina and enjoy the chaotic spectacle of the afternoon-rush-hour commute.  No matter where you choose, there will be a helpful vendor at your beck, eager to sell you a refreshingly cold cerveza. For added reflection points, contemplate all the incredible things those walls must have seen, since they were built way back in the 1600s. Sigh.

2. Baseball
Get taken out to the ballgame as Cartagena's long-held passion for baseball is put on show at the weekly Sunday games. If I'm not playing (read about THAT here), I like to watch the games in Calle Pedregal in Getsemani. They also happen in Bocagrande near the Hospital and at the foot of Castillo San Felipe. For me, this is a glimpse of the real Cartagena. Music blaring, kids sucking on bolis (homemade ice-blocks), old-timers from the barrio debating the best hitting order and baseball played in the street with neighbours looking on from their bedroom windows. For many people in Cartagena, Sunday is their only day off, so it's not uncommon for the beers and aguadiente to be passed around fairly early in the day as folks settle into relax mode. Baseball season runs March - November.

3. Tierra Bomba
It's just 15 minutes by lancha (outboard-motor-powered boat) from Bocagrande, but Tierra Bomba feels like another world - with practically private empty beaches, and local islanders living very simply and happily. You can get to Tierra Bomba for as little as 2,000 pesos each way ($1) if you go through the Pueblo and don't mind waiting until the ferry is choc-a-block full of people before it leaves. Once there, make your way through the "town", past the colourfully painted houses, the dusty football pitch, and the fresh fruit juice lady with the best views in the country, to Playa Linda then settle in to your own Corona commercial; from where you'd rather be...

4. Boardgames
Chess (Ajaderes), Ludo (Parques), Dominoes and Cards - Cartageneros are quite partial to a bit of a boardgame (another reason I must have been born here in another life!). Pass by any plaza and you will find the tinto (coffee) vendors vying it out over a hotly contested game of cards (especially Plaza San Diego and Parque Fernando Madrid). Chess is the domain of Plazas Simon Bolivar (by day) and Trinidad (by night). And there's permanently a game of Ludo happening in Callejon Ancho in Getsemani. Stand there watching the men play long enough and they'll invariably invite you to play. If you want to experience Cartagena like a local, you'll happily accept.

5. Fly a kite
Although August is official "Mes de las Cometas" (Kite Month), there's plenty of wind most of the year here in Cartagena, especially close to the sea, and an afternoon spent kite-flying is a lot of fun! During the windy months there'll be kites for sale on the beaches and around key flying spots like the grassed area near the wall on the corner of Avenida Santander and Avenida del Mar. Or for extra crafty fun - make your own! Personally, I can't keep from singing "Let's Go Fly a Kite!" from Mary Poppins the entire time.

6. Take a bus
Something I always enjoy doing, no matter where in the world I am, is to jump on the most public form of transport I can find and just spend an hour or so riding the routes. Ok, so if you only have a short time, this might not be high on everyone's agenda. But I think it's a fascinating, almost-free way to experience a city. Here in Cartagena you will pay a maximum of $1,500 Colombian pesos (75cents). Locals will hand over less for short distances. Once you've moved past the pimped-up driver's area (glitter, neon, signs praising God, giant speakers, fluffy dice etc etc) you'll need to choose your seat.  Seat selection is crucial in non-air-conditioned buses (the majority) - you want to be near an open window or door on the non-sunny side. Then sit back and enjoy the ride! At various points in your journey vendors and buskers will board the bus - they'll be selling chocolates, drinks, pens, books or rapping, singing, dancing. Many will share their unfortunate stories and ask that you give a little to help support them. You'll sit next to and maybe even converse with young and old. You'll learn the Spanish word for STOP as it is repetitively shouted to the driver. You'll see barrios that show a very different Cartagena to the one within the walls. You'll listen to Reggaeton, Champeta, Salsa and Vallenato. You'll also sweat. A lot. So be sure to bring/buy plenty of water.

7. I want to ride my bicycle!
Are you singing Queen too? Digress. So bicycles have pretty much taken over Cartagena. First there were a few rental places, then next thing they were springing up on every single corner of Centro and Getsemani. Goodness knows where they all came from. Bike rental is cheap. Usually around 3,000 pesos ($1.50) an hour and Cartagena is perfect for exploring by bike; it's flat and most of the sites are super close. Wait til the sun is about to go down and things are cooler, then cycle to Laguito to watch the sun set over the palm-framed sea. Or cycle beside the bay at Castillogrande or Manga and check out all the beautiful people keeping fit and families strolling with rollerblade-clad kiddies.

8. Movies
Pretty much most nights of the week, somewhere in Cartagena, there will be a free movie showing. Not only do they make great language practice for those looking to improve their Spanish, often the movies selected provide wonderful insight into Colombian or Latin American life. There's Tuesday night movies at Camara de Comercio, Wednesday night movies under the stars in the absolutely amazing Claustre de Convento Santo Domingo (the courtyard for Cartagena's most ancient convent) and Thursday night movies and short films at grungy Quiebracanto Cinebar (sit on chairs salvaged from the now-decaying Teatro nextdoor).

9. Dance
The people of Cartagena love music and dance, so to properly experience the city you're going to have to cut a rug. Or at least watch. There are countless free music and dance options here, from the free bands playing throughout the bars of Getsemani (enticing you in to buy a beer or two) through to dance classes at Ciudad Movil and the public zumba performance that happens on Sunday nights at Plaza Trinidad. Or just find a house with a decent sound system around Getsemani (there's dozens!) and dance with the locals in the street. If your budget stretches to include a cover charge, check out my descriptions of bars and clubs here.

10. To market, to market
Check out the sensory assault that is the Mercado Bazurto, the city's public market. Deafening music, tropical fruits, un-refrigerated meats, fish-juice-filled muddy paths and smells that range from vomit-inducing to hunger-making to floral depending upon the section you find yourself and the direction of the wind. Read more about the market here.

This is a Granadilla. It looks like a yellow passionfruit. But it's not. Same family though. The granadilla is less tangy and more sweet and somehow sherbet-y. Popping each of the little pips in between your teeth is like bubble-wrap for your mouth! They have no bitterness at all and it is highly satisfying. The seeds and pulp live inside a white fibrous sack that you tear apart to access the sweet goodness. The outside skin is kindof crisp and cracks like an eggshell when you tap it into, say, your head.

These are one of my most favourite of the myriad of tropical fruits available in Cartagena. Whilst they don't tend to be sold by the street fruit vendors, you'll find them at almost any supermarket (exito, olimpica, carrefour etc) at around 4,000 COP/kilo.

Now, here's some virtual bubble wrap for you to play with!