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MERCADO BAZURTO

16/1/2013

7 Comments

 
Dirty smelling sprawling mess.

Pretty much everything you will ever read about the infamous people's market in Cartagena will reference the above description. There will also probably be some kind of mention of the thieves and pickpockets it allegedly harbours. It is all true. But if you discount Mercado Bazurto based only upon what you read, you are missing a place that is also incredibly vibrant; filled with coloured foodstuffs, the energy of frenetic commerce, the inherent warmth of the Costeno people and the widest smiles you will ever see. You'll also be skipping one of my most favourite places in Cartagena.

Yes it is dirty. The street gunge that seeps between your unprotected thonged* toes is a less-than-hygienic combination of mud, decomposing rubbish and fish juices. A misplaced step and your foot will be plunged into a pool of it, splashing the brown gunk in an attractive splattering up the back of your calves.

And my, does it ever sprawl. Unlike other Latin American markets I have been to with their more or less ordered zones (ie separate sections for shoes, meat, electronics etc), the Bazurto's floor plan defies rhyme or reason. Legumes lie next to lingerie. Fresh(ish) fish are displayed alongside fake flowers. There's also plenty to rate highly on the gore factor scale; like grey entrails and eyeballs freshly plucked from unfortunate cows.

Picture
The smell is what locals will complain to you about the most. Look. It's definitely not roses. But somehow I find the almost tangibly thick smell, kind of visceral. Like I am giving my nostrils a workout, in the same way as a bracing swim or arduous hike makes your body feel used and useful. And when you do catch the whiff of something pleasant, like the sweetened tang of freshly squeezed passionfruit pulp, your appreciation is heightened and your taste buds swell instantaneously.

Being tall and blonde, I often describe myself as high-vis here at the best of times. In the Mercado I swear it feels as though I have a neon sign pointing at me that flashes and screams GRINGA while the song Tie Me Kangaroo Down, Sport is playing and monkeys cycle around me on miniature bicycles. Which is to say, I definitely do not blend in. But I like it. Got distracted buying Bolis (frozen fruit ice-blocks)? No problem! Look slightly lost and 4 or 5 people who have been clocking your every move will be ready to tell you exactly which way your friend went. Hmm.. where can I buy Cilantro? Again, volunteers everywhere to lead you directly to a vendor and to help you bargain a good price. There's the usual hissing, bonitas, “beautiful eyes” etc, in fact the frequency is actually cranked up here, but it's nothing if not good for the ego. And as soon as you require any help or information, the lewdness is quickly replaced by a genuine desire to help out.

I like to arrive early - before the traffic dust has settled on the produce, negating its freshness. Recently I've taken to getting the supplies for a simple ceviche. Fresh Corbina (white fish), cilantro, onions, limes, chilis and tomatoes. The whole lot, including the 2 giant fish (filleted while you wait) will cost less than $7. Sweaty, fatigued, I will then pull up a stool at one of the many outdoor eating spots for a hearty corriente (daily meal). A pile of coconut rice, fish/chicken/pork, fried platano or banana, lentils and salad, with a giant bowl of satisfying soup to start. It also comes with a glass of the revered panela. This is basically a cordial-like drink made from cane sugar. I continually make the mistake of telling them I don't like it. Woah! It's like I have spat all over the Colombian flag, so closely tied is this drink to their national identity. “But it's so delicious!”, they insist. I joke with the owners and share smiles with my fellow diners. I smile at the faded pornographic pin-ups of big busted women, lovingly pasted into place (and completely without irony) above the painted wall sign declaring “Todos gracias a Dios” - Everything thanks to God.
Then it's back on a bus, with their pimped up gilded curtains and travelling buskers, to the slightly less pungent world of Centro Cartagena. You've spent less, got more and got better.



When speaking to locals, they are genuinely amazed that I love the market so much. They talk of it being a dangerous, bad-smelling eyesore.

Sadly the government agrees:- council has recently decided that the Mercado Bazurto must relocate to a new home further out within 3 years time. Apparently the well-to-do consider this sprawling mess something of a blight on the beauty and safety of the walled city and want to keep it far from tourists and business. This is actually the second time the market has been moved. Previously it was right in the centre, near the current home of the convention centre. The rumours abound as to why it was moved at that time. Whether it was the result of some underhanded play by supermarket chain Olimpica or the result of the unhygienic tangle becoming too much to tolerate so close to the city walls is uncertain. Either way, the market has again offended the powers that be and is being pushed further out. How awful?! Cities need markets. And I think Cartagena, more than most, needs the colour and character of Bazurto to stave off the blandness and gentrification that threatens to deaden its personality and charm.

More than likely I will make the trek to the market even after it moves. And until then, I will continue to parade my gunge-splattered calves with pride, knowing I obtained the warpaint getting up close and personal with the real Cartagena.

*Australian glossary: apparently the rest of the world calls this type of footwear, flip flops
7 Comments
dale
16/4/2013 04:12:28 pm

How wonderful to hear something positive about Mercado Bazurto. I will be in Cartagena next month (as a solo female traveler) and i cannot wait to visit the market but until now everything i've read describes it as prohibitively dangerous. I'll still go regardless but it is great to read a different perspective.

Reply
Kristy link
16/4/2013 04:58:59 pm

Hi Dale! It's funny isn't it? My Colombian friends always warn me against going alone but I've never witnessed anything that could be considered dangerous. Perhaps it was more dangerous previously? I always love markets, no matter where in the world I travel. Get in touch when you are in town and perhaps I can keep you company? I also do a market tour plus cooking class.. but I really need at least 3 people booked in to make it worthwhile.

Reply
Michael
26/5/2013 09:10:32 am

Hey just wondering if you think it's a good idea for me to try to get a boat out to playa blanca from the mercado. I'm a solo American male traveler who speaks a bit of Spanish. I was planning on taking a bus to the mercado but do you think it's better to take a taxi? Will they be able to take me directly to the area where the boats are? I'm worded about getting lost in the maze.

Reply
Kristy
26/5/2013 10:27:38 am

Hey Michael
I think you should be fine and people are very helpful. Bus v Taxi - it's a convenience/time thing. Both are safe and easy. A lot of buses pass by the market so it will be easy enough to ask which one to take. Once at the market, ask again for the boats to Playa Blanca. I suggest going early - the boats wait to fill up before leaving and the mornings are the busiest times - so they will be leaving with greater frequency. You can also get on ANOTHER bus at the market and go to where the car-ferry takes you across to playa blanca... then get a moto from the ferry stop to the beach part. That's the cheapest way possible -- but also the longest..

Reply
Michael
26/5/2013 10:37:53 am

Great thanks. One more question. Is it a problem if I take my backpacker backpack with me to the mercado? Does it make me stand out too much?

Reply
Carlos
2/9/2013 06:41:13 am

There is actually a court rouling that has ordered the mayor to move that market by 2016 because it is causing enviromental damage in Cienaga(Marsh) de las Quintas. The market causes also traffic jams and is overcrowded. The market in Getsemani was moved for the same reasons

Reply
Kristy
2/9/2013 04:38:05 pm

Thanks for the extra information Carlos!

Reply



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